the crochet doctor™

Last Minute Gifts to Crochet

2011-12-04T12:05:00.000-08:00

Need some ideas for last minute gifts to crochet for Sparkle Season? Don't fret - I've got the solution for you. I was looking for ideas, too, when I discovered some of the quick and easy patterns that I designed were available on the web as downloads. More information, and the web addresses, are at my other blog:
http://notyourgrannyscrochet-marty.blogspot.com
Check out which patterns I recommend, and happy crocheting!

Winner of the Crochet Stitches Visual Encyclopedia

2011-10-31T06:21:00.000-07:00

I wish everyone could have won a copy of this book, but the winner of Robyn Chachula's book Crochet Stitches VIsual Encyclopedia is Shorty!
Thanks to all of you for participating. I hope you had fun reading all the blogs and the comments. And look for the book at your local book store or yarn shop, or on-line at Amazon. It's really a great resource.
Marty

Crochet Stitches Visual Encyclopedia by Robyn Chachula

2011-10-26T01:00:00.000-07:00

A person's books very often reveal her (or his) past, present and future, and if you were to look at my collection of books you would see just that.

My past:

I majored in Math Education when I was in college and when I graduated I taught math in high school and college – so I buy math books. Not the type you would find in schools, but books about the magic and wonders and mystery of numbers. My minor was in English Education. I buy language books –books about the history of words, how to pick the right word to use, where popular sayings come from, etc. I also have an AA degree in Graphic Design – Advertising and Commercial Art, and taught graphic art and typography and calligraphy at the community college. So - I buy books on layout, design, and fonts and typography. My next degree – a Masters of Arts in Liberal Studies, lets me collect books on almost anything that catches my interest – right now it's how we are influenced in our buying habits. My Ph.D. is in Education, Cultural Foundations –my books for this are on philosophy and psychology of education, and how culture contributes to education and everything else in our lives. My post-doctorate is in Women's Studies – I have books on women and education and opportunities for women throughout the 20th century. And, of course, from the time I was a little girl, I've been interested in crochet and the other needle arts. My book collection for that, though, didn't really begin until I was pregnant with my son. Too many years ago to count!!! These crochet books, I think, are taking over! I have way more of them than the others. But I can't give up any of them, and I keep collecting more. My crochet collection consists of old books, new books, foreign books, magazines, pamphlets, and on and on. That's my past and my present. And some of my future. Here's the rest of it.

My future:

Many of my books I look to for inspiration for future projects. The one type of book that I like – no, I mean LOVE – for inspiration is a stitch dictionary. This can be in any form – it can be 50 pattern squares to crochet for an afghan. That's 50 patterns that I can use somewhere, for something. It can be a great garment book, with interesting stitches patterns in the garments. That gives me lots of stitch patterns to work with and incorporate in my own designs. It can be a vintage crochet book with older crochet stitch patterns. Or perhaps a book published in a foreign language, but using crochet stitch symbols. All of these books give me ideas. I love learning new stitch patterns, and my most favorite books are the ones that have stitch patterns, stitch diagrams, and clear pictures of the stitches. I haunt used bookstores for vintage stitch dictionaries. I haunt web sites that sell Japanese stitch dictionaries. I haunt new bookstores for new stitch dictionaries. I haunt craft stores for pamphlets with different stitch patterns. I haunt online bookstores for new stitch dictionaries that are getting published soon. I do a lot of haunting!!!

A while ago, when I saw the title of Robyn Chachula's book on Amazon.com – Crochet Stitches Visual Encyclopedia - with a publication date in the future, I started counting down the months, then the weeks, then the days! 300 stitch patterns! With diagrams! (And I know how good Robyn is with her diagrams!) Heaven on earth in the form of a stitch dictionary! I couldn't wait!

And then Robyn asked me to be on her blog tour! My dream come true! How could I say no to her – to this – the stitch dictionary to beat all stitch dictionaries?

I didn't say no. I said OF COURSE! I picked a date to post, and waited, impatiently, for my book! It was finally delivered on a rainy, cold day, but when I got it and opened up the package, my day turned warmer and brighter! I started looking through it, even though I should have been making dinner. Dinner just would have to wait a while. I finally put the book down, with a promise that after dinner I would spend some quality time looking through it. I had heard so much about it (I listened to the Getting Loopy podcast with Robyn that very morning, when I was pedaling on a recumbent bike at my gym, and crocheting.) I couldn't wait to see what her stitch patterns were like. She said that her purpose in writing this book was to create a "go-to" stitch dictionary for her own use. I wanted to see if it could be a "go-to" stitch dictionary for me, too. After dinner, and after the dishes were done, I sat down with a note pad, determined to write down the page numbers and the names of the patterns that I wanted to try first. Perhaps to make a few swatches for this blog post, to let you all see what they looked like up close and personal. And give you some ideas about what to expect when you made them. Pretty soon, the first page on the pad was full of swatch names and page numbers, then the second page was full. And then I realized that I was writing down just about every stitch pattern. Every stitch pattern was one I wanted to make! This looks like it's my "go-to" stitch dictionary, too!

I guess I know what I'll be doing for the next 300 days!!! And longer!

Here are some of my favorite patterns, some straight from my hook, and some from the book. (When I crochet new stitch patterns, I like to use plain cotton yarn, in a solid, light color, so I can see the stitches and what they do. Robyn used various yarns and many different colors in her book.)

From my hook - interesting texture

From my hook - fun and easy circle motif

From my hook - love these popping flowers

From the book - Simple Wave pattern - great looking ripple!

From my hook - Stone Trellis - love the wavy look!

From the book - Wallpaper Cluster - love the cluster stitches

From my hook - tip about Linked Treble Crochet - love the effect!

What I found when I was crocheting the swatches, they inspired me to create other stitch patterns – similar but different from the ones I was making. I kept saying to myself – "I wonder what would happen if I did this, or that." And that's what a good stitch dictionary should do – give you ideas on how to create your own stitch patterns. And Robyn's book does just that! In fact, I had to force myself to stop crocheting these swatches and write this post!

If you want a sneak preview of the dictionary, along with a sample of what to expect in the way of stitch diagrams, look at Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/dp/1118030052/ref=rdr_ext_tmb

If you don't yet know how to read stitch diagrams, this is a great way to learn. You can follow the written pattern and look at the diagram and the photo of the swatch, all at the same time.
And, if you write a comment on my blog, you may win a copy of Robyn's book. I have one copy to give away – and I will use a random number generator to determine who gets it. Just write a comment saying how you would use a stitch dictionary like this one. Make sure you post it by midnight, (eastern time zone), Sunday, October 30, 2011. On October 31, I will pick a lucky winner, and post the winner's name here on my blog – so be sure to check on Monday, October 31, to see if you have won. I'll need your email address then, so the publisher can get in touch with you.

Good luck, and happy stitching!
Oh - one more thing. If you want to read the other blogs on Robyn's blog tour, to learn more about her book, here are the sites:

Tour Schedule:

Oct 10- Getting Loopy, http://gettingloopy.com/

Oct 11- Yarn Thing, http://www.blogtalkradio.com/yarnthing

Oct 12- Go Crochet, http://www.gocrochet.com/

Oct 13- Hook and I, http://www.thehookandi.com/

Oct 17- Vickie Howell, http://vickiehowell.blogspot.com/

Oct 18- Modeknit, http://modeknit.com/

Oct 19- Knitgrrl, http://www.knitgrrl.com/

Oct 20- NexStitch, http://www.nexstitch.com/blog/

Oct 24- Styled by Kristin, http://www.styledbykristin.com/

Oct 25- Yarn Craft, http://yarncraft.lionbrand.com/

Oct 26- Crochet Doctor, http://thecrochetdoctor.blogspot.com/

Oct 27- Lindamade, http://www.lindamade.com/wordpress/

Oct 31- Manhattan Craft Room, http://www.brettbara.com/

Crochet Flamie Awards - results

2011-04-23T19:12:00.000-07:00

I finally have time to post the results of the Crochet Flamies. Because of all of you who voted for me, I won the Best Tech Editor award! I am so excited about this! I have been tech editing for 6 or so years, and, as I said on the podcast, I started because I found some errors in a book that was edited by a friend - Jean Leinhauser. When I let her know what they were, and how to correct them, she thanked me and suggested that I try tech editing. I took her advice, and here I am! Best Tech Editor for 2010! Wow!
For those of you who are going to be at one or both of the Crochet Guild of America conferences this year, I will be giving an afternoon "breakout" session at Professional Development Day on how to become a tech editor - what skills you need, what to expect, etc., etc., etc.
And here's my virtual statuette for winning:

If you want to check out all the winners, here's the web site:

CLF flamies - winners

Crochet Flamie Awards

2011-03-22T18:07:00.000-07:00

A short note to my readers:

Well, they're doing it again! The Crochet Liberation Front is holding their 3rd annual Flamie Awards - to honor and recognize crocheters for their art. There are many awards that will be given in April on the Getting Loopy podcast. The voting is open now, through March 30. And, anyone can vote. You don't have to belong to the group. So check out the website:

http://www.crochetliberationfront.com/2011-flamie-award-nominees/vote/

Once you're there, you can see who's nominated, and look at their blogs or websites and designs. You can read about the candidates, and then you can vote. And when you do go to the site, you'll see that I'm nominated for 2 awards: best technical (tech) editor, and Lifetime Achievement Award! I would love it if you voted for me!!!!

Thanks,

Marty Miller

Baby Blueprint Crochet

2010-12-16T08:01:00.000-08:00

I love crochet books. I collect crochet books. Old ones, new ones, stitch dictionaries, books with patterns, almost any kind of crochet book I can get my hands on. Sometimes, I'll even buy two copies of a book, either because I forgot I had one copy, or I see an older book at a used book sale and have to provide it with a good home! :-) I am always looking for new books, books that will soon be published, and haunt the bookstores, both on-line and "real" ones, to see if a new book is out yet. So I knew that Robyn Chachula was going to have a new book out soon - Baby Blueprint Crochet. I liked the previews that I saw, and judging by her previous book, and her knowledge of stitch diagrams, I knew that this book would be a winner. And I would probably have to have it. I really couldn't wait until it came out.

And then Robyn asked me to be a part of the blog tour for the book, and I didn't have to think twice about it. Of course I would do it, because 1. I knew it was going to be a winner, 2. I know and like Robyn, and 3. I'd get to see the book before it became available in the stores.
Well, I did get to see the book before it got to the stores. And I still like Robyn. So, is #1 still true? You bet!
Why? Well, the photography is great. The kid models are so cute! And this book is more than just patterns for babies and toddlers. So much more. So even though I don't have many babies in my family to crochet for (in fact, only one new great-nephew) and only one toddler (my great-niece), I still want this book in my collection. Robyn has included stitch symbol diagrams with all the designs. And these diagrams map out the stitch patterns, including increases and decreases, so that if I want to use the stitch pattern in one of my designs, I could see how it would look, and I wouldn't have to figure out increasing/decreasing details. It's there! But not only does she include the stitch symbol diagrams, she actually gives instructions on how to use them effectively. So if you have never used stitch symbols or stitch symbol diagrams (and they are such a great tool to have in your crochet skills set) Robyn's instructions will teach you just what you need to know to use them. Also, each project in the book includes all the info you'll need to know about that project: what yarn you'll need, special stitches you'll need to know, how it's constructed, and how to finish it. Robyn also gives you ideas on how to make a baby project - what kinds of yarns to use, what colors you should use, what you should leave off of a baby project, and how to baby-proof your work. These are things that you may not realize if you are making these projects as a gift for a new mother. But these are all things that Robyn has learned, first hand, because she is a new mother herself. And she wants to share them with you, so your new-baby gifts will be well-used, and loved!
Robyn also uses different stitches and stitch patterns in her designs - ones that you may not know or may not have used. So you can learn some new stitch patterns, and some new stitches. She uses post stitches (both front post and back post dc), front loop only and back loop only stitches, extended stitches, different versions of double crochet and single crochet stitches (including reverse single crochet), and Tunisian stitches. So even if you don't have a baby or toddler to crochet for, Baby Blueprint Crochet is a wonderful resource to have. It's a pattern book, stitch dictionary, and how-to book all in one! Can't get any better than that!
For an example of what there is in the book, other than baby clothes, here's a picture of a baby washcloth that Robyn includes. It would make a great dishcloth if you don't know a baby to crochet for. Or make it a little bigger, and use it yourself. It comes with written directions, and a great stitch pattern diagram that is clear to read, and would be easy to enlarge.

If you want a sneak preview of the rest of the projects in Robyn's book, check out her flicker album here.

The Crochet Dude(r) and me

2010-09-18T18:49:00.000-07:00

I met the Crochet Dude(r) at a CGOA (Crochet Guild of America) Chain Link conference in 2006. It was the first one he attended, and he didn't know many people. I knew who he was, though. I was the Professional Development Chairperson, he was an Associate Professional member, and I had been reading his blog on-line. We started talking, and we've been talking ever since. In just a few years, he has developed into "The Dude" of crochet – everyone is talking -about his designs, his professionalism, his product line, his pattern books, his cats, his cooking, etc.,etc., etc. You can't miss his publications – they're in bookstores, craft stores, yarn stores, and, of course, on Amazon. You can check out his new book, Crochet It, Love It, Wear It! here.
Even though we talk a lot whenever we see each other at Chain Links and TNNA events, we don't always talk crochet. (Don't ask what we do talk about!) And I've always wanted to find out more about Drew and crochet, what got him started designing, who or what influenced his career, and all those other deep questions that good friends don't usually talk about – and when he asked me to participate in this Blog Tour, I thought it would be a good opportunity to do so. So here are my questions, and his answers:

QUESTIONS FOR DREW

1. You were a Fine Arts major in college. Did that experience in any way influence or affect your decision to pursue a career as a Crochet designer?

It didn’t really affect my decision to become a designer, but it has affected how I approach my designs. Composition, color theory, muscle & bone structure, all the things that I studied in college come into play when I am designing.

2. You lived in Mexico for a while. Did that experience in any way influence your decision to pursue a career as a Crochet designer?

Living in Guadalajara all those years affected me deeply, and completely changed how I view the world, my family, and my friends. I take care of myself better, I have more compassion for others, and I enjoy every moment of my life. Somehow that must have influenced my becoming a designer.

3. When did you realize that being a Crochet designer was the career path you wanted to pursue? How did you go about it?

It sort of crept up on me. I had been crocheting for charity and someone in the group encouraged me to submit to a calendar for publication some afghan square designs that I had come up with just for fun. To my amazement the designs were published and I launched my blog to journal about breaking into the industry.

4. Where do you get your ideas? What inspires you? How do you keep your designs "fresh"?

I suppose it depends on what I am designing. For garments I look to the fashion trends and what I like to see people wearing. For home décor I look to architecture and nature for inspiration. I think my ideas stay fresh because once a design is set free from my studio I let it go. I know that there are infinite designs inside me just waiting to come out and I always look forward.

5. What was the inspiration for your book "Crochet It. Love It. Wear It!"?

My previous book, Designs for Guys, was as the title suggests, all stuff for dudes. I knew that this time I wanted to do one for the ladies. My inspiration came from lots of sources, my sisters, my late mother, and my friends.

6. Designers often have a "niche" – something (technique, design, yarn, etc.) that they are known for. What is your "niche"? What would you like to be your "niche"?

I don’t know if I’m known for it yet, but a common denominator in my designs is the texture of the fabric that I am creating. I rely heavily on post stitches to achieve maximum texture. I think in retrospect someday I’ll be known for textures.

7. What is the most intriguing thing about your Crochet design career?

The most intriguing thing for me is that I can run a complex design business out of a studio in my home. The latest technology has made it relatively simple to do and I find that fascinating.

8. What, if anything, do you crochet for yourself? What is your favorite type of: Pattern? Stitch? Technique?

I really don’t ever crochet for myself, I just don’t have the time. All my crochet time is dedicated to new designs. I don’t mind though, the design process is so fulfilling for me that I get the best of both worlds every day: the pleasure of crocheting and the stimulation of designing.

9. You've done so much with Crochet – designing, teaching, teaching on a cruise, TV show, branded crochet tools and accessories, just to name a few. What are your future plans (that you can share with us)?

The sky is the limit at this point. I’m continuing to expand upon what I have built so far and I like that it is growing organically. There is plenty of time to do so much more and I’m happily paying my dues and having the time of my life.

10. What words of wisdom do you have for other Crochet designers?
What words of wisdom do you have for other Crocheters?

For designers I would say let go and be free. Don’t worry or fuss about what you’ve already designed. Only move forward and trust that you will always be able to come up with new ideas whenever you need them.

For crocheters I would say challenge yourself and try patterns that you might not think you could do. You might surprise yourself and discover that you are an even better crocheter than you had once thought.

There was one more question that I had to ask him:
11. When are you going to name a design after me? I want my turn!
The Dude said: I've already answered that question in another interview!

Hmph! So now I guess I have to read all the other blogs on the blog tour to find the answer! In between drooling over the designs in his new book, and trying to figure out what yarn I'm going to use for my favorite one! (It's the one called Laurie.)

Check out his book, and all of Drew's other books and tools and gadgets and stuff. You'll be glad you did. You can find all this info on his blog:
the Crochet Dude(r)

And, you can buy it here.

The Dude posted this picture of us on his blog today - I had to repost it here!

I made the crocheted glasses at one of his "make and takes" (to make a necklace - I repurposed the materials)!

The Crochet Dude will be here Sunday, September 19, 2010

2010-09-17T20:10:00.000-07:00

If you want to find out about The Crochet Dude (r) and his new book, I'll be blogging and posting about him and it on Sunday, September 19, 2010. Well, I may post late Saturday night, Eastern Daylight Time, so check the blog then. Until then, read the other blogs that have posted on the blog tour. Find out about them on the Dude's blog. And get to know all sides of the Dude!

Crochet Hook Sizes

2010-07-14T19:22:00.000-07:00

If you look at a modern crochet hook, most likely the hook will have 3 things on it - other than the name of the company that manufactured it. These three things are a letter, a number, and a mm size.
These are the 3 common ways to designate hook sizes. Some companies use all 3 designations, some only one or two.
What can get confusing is that there is not a standard measurement for hooks. So one company's hook may have the same letter as another company's hook, but the mm size is different (i.e. an N in one company may be 10mm, in another it may be 9mm). That small difference may be just enough to alter your gauge. If a pattern calls for an N hook, and the designer used a 10mm N, but you use a 9mm N, your gauge may be off enough to really make a difference in the finished product. And you'll wonder why - you did use the hook that was called for. If the pattern doesn't list the mm size for the hook, it's really not your fault. If the mm size was listed along with the hook letter and the number, then you should make it a point to pick a hook based on the mm size. Crochet patterns should list mm sizes. Letters and numbers are fine for the hooks, but the mm size is the most important thing! If you remember that one little thing, you'll be way ahead!
One more thing to remember - some older hooks may have different mm sizes than newer ones from the same company. So, remember, the best thing to look for in a hook is the mm size.

Here are the commercially available size of hooks:
B-1, 2 mm or 2.5 mm
C-2, 2.75mm
D-3, 3.25mm
E-4, 3.5mm
F-5, 3.75mm
G-6, 4mm
G-7, 4.5mm
H-8, 5mm
I-9, 5.5mm
J-10, 6mm
K-10.5, 6.5mm
L-11, 8mm
M-13, 9mm
N-15, 10mm
P-16, 11.5mm

These are the commercially made hooks. There are other sizes, made by independent hook companies.
I hope this helps those who are confused by the variety of hook sizes and designations.

When is a Crochet Stitch Pattern Not a Crochet Stitch Pattern?

2009-11-10T19:46:00.000-08:00

Recently, there has been some discussion on-line, and in my crochet classes, about the names of stitches and stitch patterns. One teacher posted on a message board that a student came to class with a pattern that listed a stitch pattern as a "seed stitch", but it wasn't the "seed stitch" she knew, so she was totally confused. The stitch that the student brought in was "sc in front loop, sc in back loop". The teacher was also confused - because she knew the "seed stitch" as "sc, *ch 1, skip a stitch, sc in next, repeat from *" and in the next row, sc over the ch-1 spaces, and ch-1 over the scs. Then someone else chimed in with another stitch that she knew as the seed stitch. And then I got curious. What do these stitches look like when they're placed side-by-side? So I made a swatch, using all thoses stitches, and more - because they reminded me of the knit "seed stitch". If you knit, you'll know that the "seed stitch" in knitting is Knit 1, Purl 1, across the row. On the next row, you Purl over what looks like a Knit stitch, and Knit over what looks like a Purl stitch. This creates a bumpy fabric. Almost like a miniature basket-weave. It's bumpy, then smooth, then bumpy, then smooth, etc. The next row is smooth over the bumps, and bumpy over the smooth part.
On my swatch, I crocheted first the "seed stitch" that i know - sc over the ch-1 space, ch 1 over the sc. Then 2 rows of plain sc to separate the stitches. Then, sc in the front loop, sc in the back loop. Then, 2 rows of plain sc. Then what's called the "Grit Stitch" (and "Alternate Stitch" and "Griddle Stitch"), which is "skip a stitch, 2 sc in one stitch, skip a stitch, and 2 sc in the next st, repeating across". Then, 2 rows of plain sc, and then the "Up/Down" stitch (*sc, dc, repeat from * across. Next row, dc in the scs, sc in the dcs), also called the "Cobble" stitch.
I'm sure these stitch patterns have other names, because names for stitch patterns are not standardized.
But, I can see, by looking at the stitch patterns worked in one swatch, like I did, that they look similar, and probably can be interchanged, if done with caution.
Here's the swatch:

So, why would you have to proceed with caution if you were switching stitch patterns? Take a close look at the swatch. I made it in one sitting. I was relaxed from the beginning. I used the same hook, the same yarn. I didn't have to add or subtract stitches to make the stitch patterns come out to the same number. It all worked like a dream - and yet, the swatch is wider at the top, the part that was done last. If this would happen to you, and you wanted to substitute the "Up/Down" stitch for the "Seed Stitch", your gauge would change.

Here are close up pictures of the 4 stitch patterns I used, on the order I worked them. The directions for these stitch patterns can be found in most stitch dictionaries. The directions I gave to describe the stitch patterns are just short-hand directions.

Here is the "seed stitch" as I know it:

Here is the "sc in the front loop, sc in the back loop" stitch pattern:

Here is the "Grit Stitch" stitch pattern:

Here's the last one - the "Up/Down" stitch pattern:

What did this experiment tell me? Lots of things.
1. Most important - names of crochet stitches and stitch patterns are not standardized! What one person calls Stitch A, another may call Stitch B. So - when you are working a pattern, and it calls for you to work a stitch pattern, but there is no explanation of the stitch pattern, that's not a good situation. If you are a designer, as I am, you should describe any and all stitch patterns that you use and name.
2. If you are a designer, and think you have designed a new stitch pattern, you should do a little research into it- find out if the same stitch pattern has already been "discovered" and named. You can find out from some stitch dictionaries, and/or pattern books. If it already has a name, don't rename it! That just causes confusion.

I know that there are many more stitches that are different, but that have the same name. And many stitches that have 2 or more names. Foundation sc and chainless sc are the same stitch with 2 different names. And often, bobbles, puff stitches, popcorn stitches, berry stitches, clusters, knots, and shells are interchanged by mistake. I'm teaching some special Tunisian classes, and in my research on Tunisian crochet stitches, I've discovered, so far, three different Tunisian Purl stitches. I bet there are more!

I'll post soon on the Tunisian Purl stitches. Keep in touch!

Oh - the answer to the question - When is a Crochet Stitch Pattern not a Crochet Stitch Pattern? What do you think?

Crochet Tote Bag

2009-09-02T11:54:00.000-07:00

The Project: You want to make a round, bucket-type tote bag. You want the bottom worked in a solid stitch - like a single crochet. You want the top worked in a lacy stitch pattern, like shells.
The Problem: How do you figure out how many rounds of the solid stitch to work for the bottom? How do you figure out how many shells to work, and how to space them?

The Answer: Decide how wide you want the tote, when it's folded flat. That will be the approximate diameter of the bottom circle. (For those of you who were dreaming of your boyfriend or girlfriend during your high school geometry class, the diameter of a circle is the line drawn from edge to edge through the center of the circle.) So, crochet a circle that will be approximately that diameter. You can end each round, or crochet in a spiral. This is up to you. But if you're crocheting in a spiral, and not ending each round, you still should end the last round. Do this: when you get to the last stitch of the round (you did mark the last stitch of each round, didn't you?), do your stitch in the last stitch, and then slip stitch in the next stitch. Of course, I'm assuming you're working in single crochet. If you worked your circle in double crochet, you should end your last round with 2 half double crochets, and then 2 single crochets. That should get you to the last stitch. Then do a slip stitch in the next stitch. If you worked your circle in half double crochets, then end your round with 2 single crochets. Then slip stitch in next stitch.
Okay, are you with me so far?
Next step - decide the stitch and stitch pattern you want to use for the sides of the bag. Once you have that, figure out the repeat count. How many base stitches does each repeat take? Divide that number into the number of stitches in your last round of the bottom circle. Hope it divides evenly. If it does, then you can space the stitches so that one pattern repeat will take up the same number of stitches as the answer to the above division problem.
Here's an example.
I have 90 stitches in my last round. I want to work a shell pattern that uses 4 base stitches per repeat. Here is the pattern:
*sc in first stitch, skip one stitch, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in next stitch, skip one stitch. Repeat from * around.
Do you see where the pattern takes up 4 stitches per repeat?
"sc in first stitch" - that's one.
"skip one stitch" - that's two.
"(2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next stitch" - that's three.
"skip one stitch" - that's four.
Okay, you have 4 stitches per pattern. And 90 stitches all together. 90 divided by 4 = 22.5. Oh oh - it's not even. So my pattern repeat will not be able to repeat the full pattern at the end. So I have to do something.
I need to change the pattern repeat to some number that goes into 90 evenly. Like 6. If I skip 2 sts between the sc and the (2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) shell, on both sides of the shell, that will add 2 more stitches to each pattern repeat, giving me 6 stitches for each pattern repeat. And 90 divided by 6 = 15.
I might have to do one more thing to the shell, so it doesn't get too stretched out trying to spread over so many stitches. I may have to add a ch-1 on both sides of the dcs.
Here's my new pattern:
*sc in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, (ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1) in next st, skip 2 stitches. Repeat from * around.
There - that should do it. My stitch pattern takes up 6 stitches.
Here is the breakdown.
"sc in first st" - that's one.
"skip 2 stitches" - that's two and three.
"(ch 1, 2dc, ch 1, 2dc, ch 1) in next stitch" - that four.
"skip 2 stitches" - that's five and six.

Here's a picture of the bottom of the bag - a circle - with the first row of the side shells. You can see that there are 15 shells around the perimeter.

And here's a close up picture of some of the pattern repeats. You can see that each repeat uses up 6 sc stitches along the last round of the bottom.

Yarn is yarn? Worsted is worsted?

2009-08-17T19:21:00.000-07:00

Yarn is yarn, right? And cotton yarn is cotton yarn. And worsted weight yarn is worsted weight yarn. So if you have a pattern that uses cotton worsted weight yarn, you can just substitute another cotton worsted weight yarn in that pattern, and it should be okay. Right? Well, no. That's not right.

Let me tell you what a designer does when she or he thinks up a design. I'll tell you what I do, at least. If I can choose the yarn I want to use, I think of the design. Is it a tote? It needs a sturdy yarn. Is it a scarf? It needs a flowing yarn. Is it a sweater? It needs a yarn that will drape the way I want the sweater to drape, and that won't be so heavy it will stretch out of shape. Sometimes, the editor of the book or magazine will choose the yarn, and most of the time it's the right choice. When I get to choose the yarn, I can swatch with different yarns, and see which swatch works the best for the design. Now, when the pattern gets published, I often hear about people making the design using a different yarn. And I encourage that. To an extent. You have to be very careful when you change yarns, if you want to get the same feel, effect, etc., of the original design. I thought I would do a little experiment to show you what I mean.

I crocheted two swatches - one in Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece, the other in LionBrand Recycled Cotton. The Cotton Fleece label says the yarn is 80% cotton, 20% Merino wool. The skein weighs 3.5 oz, (100 grams), and has approximately 215 yards. The yarn weight is 3, which is a little lighter than worsted. They suggest you use a needle size 6, which is 4mm, and is comparable to a G-6, 4.00 hook. The Recycled Cotton, which is a new yarn that I was eager to try (and I like it tremendously), is 74% recycled cotton, 24% acrylic, and 2% other fiber. The skein weighs the same as the Cotton Fleece, 3.5 oz, 100 grams. But it has only 185 yards, because the yarn weight is 4, which is worsted weight. They suggest you use an I-9, 5.5mm hook with it. So - you can say these yarns are not really equivalent. Oh, yes, the gauge for the Cotton Fleece is 5 stitches per inch, or 20 stitches for 4 inches, using the recommended knitting needle. They don't give a crochet gauge. For the Recycled Cotton, the gauge is 13 sc, or 18 stitches (knitting) to 4 inches. You can see the gauge is not the same with these yarns.

I crocheted 2 swatches, one in each yarn. One right after another, so I was relaxed for both of them. (Gauge can change when you are tense, or relaxed, or pick up your crocheting at different times.) And, instead of using a G hook, or an I hook, I used the one in the middle of these two, an H hook.

I got interesting results. But first - which yarn do you think would be thicker? The #4 weight - worsted - or the #3 weight - light worsted or dk? You'd think the worsted would be a heavier yarn, right? Check this picture out.

The beige yarn is the #4 - Recycled Cotton. The turquoise is the #3, Cotton Fleece. The Cotton Fleece looks thicker than the Recycled Cotton, even though it's a #3, and the Recycled Cotton is a #4. Hmmm? Interesting.

Now, what about the swatches? Do you think one would be longer and wider than the other? Check this picture out.

They are both about the same size. If one is wider, it looks like the Cotton Fleece is a little wider than the Recycled Cotton. I used a larger hook than called for on the Cotton Fleece swatch, and it is at least as big, maybe bigger, than the Recycled Cotton swatch - on which I used a smaller hook than called for. And finally, I wish you could touch the swatches through your computer. When you want to crochet a fabric that drapes, one way to do it is to use a bigger hook than called for - which is what I did with the Cotton Fleece. And when you want to make a stiff fabric, you usually use a smaller hook. Which is what I did with the Recycled Cotton. So, the Cotton Fleece is nice and drapey; the Recycled Cotton is nice and stiff. I would definitely use the Recycled Cotton in a purse or tote, or something that I want to have some body. I would defiinitely use the Cotton Fleece in something that I want soft and flowing and drapey. Like a sweater. Plus, because the Cotton Fleece is so soft, I don't think it will stretch much when worn. However, the Recycled Cotton may.

So, what does this all mean? Well, when you substitute yarn in a design, be sure you substitute yarn that will give you the same look as the original; yarn that will behave the same as the original. That is so important! If you use a different yarn than one that's called for, but use the same hook size, you may end up with a tote that has no body, or a sweater that can stand up by itself! (It may even happen with a different size hook.)

wrong side, right side, which side is which?

2008-08-20T07:23:00.000-07:00

One question that I frequently get asked is "How do you determine the wrong side from the right side of a crochet piece?" Well, remember how the designer determines the gauge? It's the designer's choice, essentially. So is the wrong side and right side of a crocheted fabric. Some fabrics look "better" on one side, some stitches have "right sides" and "wrong sides", but generally speaking, it's a design decision!

So the RS and WS of fabric is determined by the designer. That's not the case, though, with stitches.
Let's look at what I just wrote about stitches having a wrong side and a right side. Most stitches, when you make them, you will be working them on their "right" side. You may be on the "wrong" side of the fabric, or you might be on the "right" or "public" side of the fabric. But the stitches have a slightly different look if you turn the fabric around and look at the other side. Certain stitches, however, like the loop stitch, or a popcorn or bullion stitch, have a definite difference between the front and the back of the stitch. Usually, when you work a loop stitch, you work it on the wrong side of the fabric, because you want the loops to be on the front side of the fabric. So you can say you are really working the loop stitch on it's "wrong" side. The "right" side would be the side with the loops.

Are you confused yet? That's probably because "right" side and "wrong" side have many different meanings. You have "right" and "wrong" side of the fabric (abbreviated RS and WS in directions), "right" and "wrong" side of stitches, "right" and "left" side of the piece as you are working it, and "right" and "left" side of the garment as you are wearing it.

When the directions say: Row 1 (RS) ............ , that means that the row you are working on (Row 1), as you are working it, will be the "right" side, or public side of the fabric.

How do you tell the "right" and "wrong" side of stitches? If you look at the fabric as you are making it, you can see the top of the stitches. They look like they form a chain. That's usually the "right" side of the stitches. Turn the fabric over, and you can't see the tops anymore. That's usually the "wrong" side of the stitches.

Right side of the piece as you are working on it will be the side by your right hand. Left side is the side by your left hand.

But right side of the garment as you are wearing it means just that - the side that's on the right when you wear it. Ditto for left!

How do you know which row to end with, if the directions say "End on a RS row."? If Row 1 is a RS row, then all the odd numbered rows are RS rows. So if the directions say "end on a RS row", you'll finish with an odd numbered row. If the directions say "end with a WS row", you'll finish with an even numbered row.

I know pictures will help with this discussion. So, I'll be working on some samples today, and post them asap! If you have any questions about all of this, please ask me - post a comment.

And, know that you're not alone in this - this is a confusing part of crochet patterns!

What Else Affects Gauge?

2008-08-18T22:00:00.000-07:00

I recently got back from The Knit and Crochet Show and CGOA/TKGA Conference, where I taught 7 classes in 4 days, went to a CGOA board meeting, attended the CGOA members' meeting, went to the Fashion Show and dinner on Saturday night, visited with lots of friends, and had an all around wonderful time! Read more about it on my blog: notyourgrannyscrochet. I'm back now, and trying to get my act together for the next conference, in less than 3 weeks! This one is in Portland, Oregon - I've never been there, and I'm excited about going. I'll be teaching 7 classes again - one of them though, Crocheting on the Edge - may not have enough students before pre-registration is over (August 21). So if you're planning to go to the TKGA/CGOA conference don't wait to sign up for classes. Sign up now, by Thursday afternoon at 4:30 Eastern time!

I did promise you that I would tell you more about what affects gauge. I had an interesting discussion about that this morning in the class I teach at a lys. One of my students made a very pretty vest - that was humongous on her. She checked her gauge with one yarn, then decided she didn't like that yarn, changed to another yarn, and thought that it was the same weight, so she didn't check her gauge again. She learned! If you're going to change yarns, even if it is the same weight, or same yarn but a different color, check your gauge! Repeat - check your gauge!

Another student, who came back for her second lesson, said she was really nervous and tense for her first class. And her crocheting was really tight. Today, I showed her how to relax, how to make her stitches higher, and her crocheting loosened up a bit. (To make your stitches a little higher, lift the hook above the top of the row you worked into. Just a little, maybe 1/8 of an inch. But that will help if your row gauge is off - if you have too many rows to the inch. I do this at the end of the stitch - just pull up on the hook.)

The first baby afghan I made for my son was a nice ripple pattern. I started out really tense, but loosened up as I figured out the stitch pattern. I had never worked a ripple stitch, nor had I ever made an afghan. (This was MANY years ago.) The sides of the afghan slope out. The bottom is narrow, the top is wide. Because I got more relaxed as I went on.

So gauge is affected a lot by your tension. If you're mad at someone, your gauge might be off - too tight. If you're really relaxed, your gauge might be off - too loose. And if the designer crochets tight (she or he might have been tense, trying to meet the deadline!), and you're relaxing out by the pool, your tension might be loose and your gauge may not match the designer's gauge!

That's the story about gauge. And that's one reason I started designing my own fashions. I could never meet the designer's gauge! :-)

How to read Crochet patterns, Part 2

2008-06-14T15:50:00.000-07:00

In Part 1, I stopped when we got to "What is gauge?" You can also ask - "Is gauge important?" And what about "Why does my gauge change when I'm in the middle of a project?" And "Does yarn of the same weight have the same gauge?"

I know I'll think of other questions to answer, so let's just get going.

What is Gauge?
Gauge is not some mysterious number that the yarn companies come up with. No - gauge is the number of stitches per inch, and the number of rows per inch. So how do the yarn companies determine the gauge for their yarns? Probably, someone knits or crochets with them, and counts how many stitches and rows per inch. Then, that's the gauge of that yarn, using the hook or needle that was used to determine the gauge. However, it may not be the gauge that the designer gets when she/he uses that yarn to design a project. The designer may use the same size hook or needle, or a different size - depending upon the look that she/he wants to achieve with the fabric. So the designer determines the gauge for the project. Is that important? Well, depends upon the project. If you're making a sweater, or garment that is to be worn, the answer is YES! Gauge is important! If you're making a scarf, dishcloth, purse, tote, shawl, etc., where size doesn't really matter, then gauge doesn't really matter. EXCEPT you will maybe need more yarn if your gauge is not the same as the given gauge. So, gauge is what someone gets when they crochet or knit, and counts the stitches in an inch. Although, gauge is usually written as over 4". For example, 16 sc = 4", and 12 rows = 4".

Does yarn of the same weight have the same gauge? Not always.

This picture shows 3 examples of "kitchen" cotton yarns. Labels on the yarns say they are worsted weight. To make the samples, I used the same hooks (more on that later), and the same number of stitches and rows (I did run out of yarn on the middle swatch before the rows were complete.) On each swatch, I started with a G hook, and went to an H, an I, and a J, so you could see the gradual change in stitch gauge as I used different size hooks. You can also see that the row gauge changes. You could successfully use any of the 4 hook sizes, or even other sizes, with these yarns, depending upon the look you want. If you want a tight fabric, use a smaller hook. For a looser fabric, use a larger hook. And if the pattern is written for one yarn, and you use another equivalent yarn, and the same size hook, you may not get the same gauge or fabric.

One thing that I see more and more now. On the ball bands for the yarns, many companies are noting the hook size to use to get a certain gauge, along with the knitting needle size. That is really a positive move! But beware. Often, the given hook size is the same as the given needle size, and even though your gauge may be right on the mark, remember that the size of the hook (and the size of the needle) is just a recommendation. You don't have to use that size with the yarn! Also remember, knitting stitches are different than crochet stitches. Knit stitches are more like weaving. Crochet stitches are more like knotting. So the crochet fabric made with the same size hook as recommended for knitted fabric will be thicker! Knots are thick!

Whew! That's a lot to remember! But there is one other important thing about gauge you need to know! Hook sizes are not always standard. One N hook from one manufacturer may not be the same size as an N hook from another manufacturer. So if the directions call for an N (or any other "lettered" size), you need to know the millimeter (mm) size before proceeding.

Sometimes, two different hooks from the same manufacturer, with the same letter designation and the same mm size, will also be different. I found this out recently! I picked up a bag with a sweater that I had started about 6 months ago. I wanted to finish it this past weekend. I always leave the crochet hook that I've used with the project in the bag with the project, because I know that sometimes, crochet hooks can be different. When I first started the sweater, I was using a regular Susan Bates Silvalume hook. But I've recently changed to the Susan Bates Silvalumes with the bamboo handles. So, I took from my hook case the same size bamboo handle hook. And then I looked at both hooks. They really looked different - in the head and throat and finger rest. Here is a picture:

The hook on the left is the one with the bamboo handle. They are both marked with the same letter size and the same mm size. But you can see a definite difference between them. I'm not complaining about this, I'm just noting it here. I do know that as much as I love my regular Susan Bates Silvalume hooks, I absolutely ADORE the new ones with the bamboo handles. And whenever I recommend them to my students, whether they have been using the regular Bates Silvalume, or another brand, they fall in love with these new ones, also. So I think that the subtle change in shape and size is a plus! A definite improvement !

So, to make a long story short, changing your crochet hook can also affect gauge. Even if you use the same brand. That's why I keep the hook with the project!

There are a few more things that can affect gauge, and I'll talk about them in the next installment!
Stay tuned!

TNNA Report Part 1

2008-06-11T20:11:00.000-07:00

Check out my other blog NotYourGrannysCrochet for some info about the yarns I found at TNNA, The National Needlearts Association Trade Show, last week. The ultimate yarn shop, and more!
And I promise I'll post some more info about how to read a crochet pattern, and gauge, and whatever else you want to know. Soon. I promise! :-)

How to read crochet patterns

2008-05-12T16:10:00.000-07:00

I teach crochet classes at a lys, and this morning, one of my new, beginner students, asked me to show her how to read a crochet pattern. I had showed her how to chain, single crochet, and double crochet, and she wanted to know more. Another student who was working from a pattern, offered to let me use her pattern as an example, so that she could learn some things, too. As I was going over some of the beginning information, I thought it would be helpful to talk about some of it here, because I get questions about reading patterns all the time.

First of all, I suggest reading the pattern all the way through, before you start crocheting. Mark places where you have questions.
Then, here are the usual parts of the pattern:
SIZES. These are usually written like this: XS(S, M, L, XL) But what does that mean? What measurement is an XS? You'll need to look at the numbers next to these letters. They might look like this: 32"(36", 40", 44"), and be under the heading: FINISHED MEASUREMENTS.
What does that mean? Well, it means the measurements of the finished garment. Not your body measurements, but the GARMENT measurements. So if you had a chest size of 32" and you want to make a sweater with "positive ease", your finished measurement might be 36" or 40", or however much "ease" you want. Which leads to - what is "ease"? "Ease" is the amount of room you have between you and the garment. "Positive ease" is roomy - bigger than your body measurement. Some patterns, however, require "negative ease" - smaller than your body measurement. These garments could be meant to be worn tight, or they could be very lacy and loosely crocheted, so that they would stretch quite a bit. If you need to be concerned about "negative ease", very often it will be mentioned somewhere at the beginning of a pattern - the Notes section, probably.

Okay, we know the garment comes in 4 sizes, and we have to choose which size to make. All of the directions from here on will have choices for different sizes. You might have a direction that says: Ch 25(41, 57, 73). If you were making the XS (extra small) size, you would chain 25. If you were making the L (large) size, you would chain 57. It's a good idea to go through the pattern and highlight the directions for the size that you want to make.

Somewhere, after FINISHED MEASUREMENTS, there will be a section for MATERIALS. (It may be separated from the directions.) This section covers yarn, hook size or sizes, and anything extra that you may need.
I'll talk about yarns and hooks in another post - there is a lot to say about each!

The next part is usually GAUGE. This is measured, usually over 4", but sometimes over another inch measure - it depends on the stitch pattern and how long it is. A simple gauge description is: 16 sc and 8 rows = 4".
But what if you have a pattern stitch. Then this would be how it is designated: 4 pattern repeats and 4 rows = 4".
Sometimes, patterns don't give you the row gauge, just the stitch gauge. And remember, this is figured using the hook size that was in the MATERIALS section along with the yarn that was listed there.
Now, this is all just simple math, but my student asked me "What is gauge?" So, I'm asking you. What is gauge?

I'm going to talk about it in my next post! Think about it until then, and if you think you have an answer, post a comment, please!

The next part of a pattern is usually the stitches used, and any special stitch pattern. In this section, the abbreviations for the stitches and stitch pattern are given. We used abbreviations so that we don't have to write out the stitches each and every time. "Dc" is a lot easier and quicker to write than "double crochet". And it saves space - really important in print!

Then, there are the NOTES. This is a section that will tell you things that you need to know about the pattern. Perhaps that it is worked in the round, or side to side. There may be a note about crocheting the pieces in the correct order, and then connecting them. There is all kinds of information in the notes - don't forget to read them!

So - I've taken you through the first part of reading a pattern. I'll be continuing this, with the answer to the question: What is gauge? And I'll talk about hooks and yarns. Then, I'll go through the typical pattern, line by line.

'Til next time!

Felting Crochet - how to do it!

2008-05-09T14:10:00.000-07:00

Whenever I work in public on a crochet project that I am going to felt, inevitably someone will ask me what I am making. When I answer, and add that I will felt it when I'm done crocheting, the next comment is, "I didn't know you could felt crochet." Well, yes you can. It may not felt just like a knitted piece does, but crochet does felt!

What you need to felt something is yarn that felts, hot water, and something that will provide agitation.

To felt something by machine – put the piece into a zippered pillowcase (this will prevent the felt lint from getting into the washing machine and gumming up the works). Use a small amount of hot water – you don't need much. Add something like an old towel, old jeans, or rubber flip flops. Something that the piece can bump around with. Add just a touch of laundry detergent, and start the machine. You might want to add some boiling water, too.
You should check your project every few minutes. Then, when it's felted enough, take it out. DON'T let it go through the rinse and spin cycles – this could put creases in the felted piece. If it doesn't felt enough in one wash cycle, drain the machine and start again. When the piece is felted enough, take it out, rinse it in cold water. Do not wring the water out of it (see above about rinse and spin cycles.) Roll it up in a towel to squeeze water out of it. Lay it flat to dry, and if it needs shaping, pull it into shape. If it needs stuffing, stuff the inside with a towel or some newspaper to wick the water away.

Now – how do you know how much your piece will shrink? You don't. :-)
You can make a swatch, measure it before and after felting, and get some idea. But it won't always be accurate. Small pieces felt differently than large ones do. Different yarns felt differently. Different colors of the SAME yarn felt differently. If the water is not as hot, if the agitation is not as strong or as long, your piece will felt differently. There are so many variables! And, crochet pieces felt differently than knit pieces. Crochet felts more in the width of the piece than in the height. Knit felts more in the height then in the width.

Look at the above example. Two bags, the red one is knit, the violet one crocheted. Both are worked in Berroco Vibe. Both were worked to the same initial size. Both were felted in the same machine, but not at the same time. See how the knit bag is not the same size as the crochet bag! It's shorter than the crochet bag, and the crochet bag is a little narrower than the knit one. If you look close, you can see the different width in the handles too.

I like to tell my students that felting is not an exact science. But it's fun to do, and you do get "hooked" on it!

Ch 3 and turn, or turn and ch 3 ? That is the question!

2008-05-02T13:18:00.000-07:00

I have been crocheting for ages, and writing directions for almost as long. I also am a tech editor, and I work with individual designers, yarn companies, and book and magazine editors. Each person or company usually has their own guidelines for writing patterns, crochet or knit. I know I have my own guidelines for pattern writing, based on what I would like to see in a written pattern. I also know that crochet patterns are written differently than knitting patterns are. I can usually tell when a knitter has written the crochet pattern, by the way it is worded - "cast on" is used in knitting patterns, and it's often used when a knitter writes a crochet pattern. Same with "bind off". We don't usually cast on and bind off in crochet. Knitting patterns also say "k4, p4, k4, p4". In crochet we would say " *sc through front loop only in each of the next 4 sts, sc through back loop only in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * across." Crocheters need to know where to put their stitches, so we have to tell them "in each." Otherwise they may put 4 sc in one st.
When I teach my new students how to read a pattern, they seem to grasp this concept quickly. But one thing they have a problem with is the difference between "ch 3, turn" and "turn, ch 3". I've have told them it really makes no difference in what the chain stitch looks like. Just be consistent in what you do. However, my students don't always believe me! So I ask them to make a swatch. You can do this too.

Chain 12.
Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook, and in each ch across. Ch 3, turn. (10 dc, counting first ch-3 as a dc here and throughout)
Row 2: skip 1st dc, dc in next dc and in each dc across. Ch 3, turn. (10 dc)
Row 3: skip 1st dc, dc in next dc and in each dc across. Turn. (10 dc)
Row 4: ch 3, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc and in each dc across. Turn. (10 dc)
Row 5: ch 3, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc and in each dc across. End off.

Now, look at the ch-3 that you worked at the end of the 1st Row. (It's at the beginning of the 2nd row.) Compare it to the ch-3 you make at the beginning of the 4th row. (You can see these chains in my picture. The first one, made at the end of the 1st Row and appearing at the beginning of the 2nd row, is labeled with a "1". The 2nd one, at the beginning of the 4th Row, is labeled with a "3". ) I know, you're wondering WHY I labeled them that way. Well, I'll tell you ..........I really don't know! :-) But now, look closely. There really is no difference between the chains. (The picture shows the bottom chain of the first ch-3 turned on it's side - but that's just because I didn't straighten it out when I took the picture!)

You can try this with a hdc and a tr, and the results would be the same.
There is one thing, though, that I would caution you to do, just as I caution my students - be consistent! If you chain at the end of the row, and then turn, do that all the time. If you turn, and then chain at the beginning of a row, do THAT all the time! :-)

Any questions?
The Crochet Doctor is in!

The Crochet Doctor is In

2008-04-28T11:24:00.000-07:00

I've wanted to do this blog for a long time! I am a crochet teacher, both locally, (at my lys), and nationally (at the Crochet Guild of America's conferences). Whenever I teach, whenever someone finds out that I'm a teacher, they invariably ask me a "crochet" question. "How do you get rid of the space between the turning chain and the first stitch? How do you join rounds in a Granny Square? How can you tell which is the right side and the wrong side? Why is my piece more narrow at the top than it is at the bottom, where I started? Is gauge really important? Why doesn't this pattern make sense to me? How does "ch 3" differ from "ch-3"? Or does it? Is it important to use the same yarn that the pattern calls for? It's been discontinued. What should I do?"
These are just some of the questions I plan to answer in this blog. There will be more. I am a member of a couple of on-line discussion groups, and there are always questions posted on these groups. I will try to answer them here.
But - most important! If you, my loyal readers, have any questions, please send them to me. You can email me: thecrochetdoctor@aol.com
or post a comment/question here.