Baby Blueprint Crochet

I love crochet books. I collect crochet books. Old ones, new ones, stitch dictionaries, books with patterns, almost any kind of crochet book I can get my hands on. Sometimes, I'll even buy two copies of a book, either because I forgot I had one copy, or I see an older book at a used book sale and have to provide it with a good home!  :-) I am always looking for new books, books that will soon be published, and haunt the bookstores, both on-line and "real" ones, to see if a new book is out yet. So I knew that Robyn Chachula was going to have a new book out soon - Baby Blueprint Crochet. I liked the previews that I saw, and judging by her previous book, and her knowledge of stitch diagrams, I knew that this book would be a winner. And I would probably have to have it. I really couldn't wait until it came out.

And then Robyn asked me to be a part of the blog tour for the book, and I didn't have to think twice about it. Of course I would do it, because 1. I knew it was going to be a winner, 2. I know and like Robyn, and 3. I'd get to see the book before it became available in the stores.
Well, I did get to see the book before it got to the stores. And I still like Robyn. So, is #1 still true? You bet!
Why? Well, the photography is great. The kid models are so cute! And this book is more than just patterns for babies and toddlers. So much more. So even though I don't have many babies in my family to crochet for (in fact, only one new great-nephew) and only one toddler (my great-niece), I still want this book in my collection. Robyn has included stitch symbol diagrams with all the designs. And these diagrams map out the stitch patterns, including increases and decreases, so that if I want to use the stitch pattern in one of my designs, I could see how it would look, and I wouldn't have to figure out increasing/decreasing details. It's there! But not only does she include the stitch symbol diagrams, she actually gives instructions on how to use them effectively. So if you have never used stitch symbols or stitch symbol diagrams (and they are such a great tool to have in your crochet skills set) Robyn's instructions will teach you just what you need to know to use them. Also, each project in the book includes all the info you'll need to know about that project: what yarn you'll need, special stitches you'll need to know, how it's constructed, and how to finish it. Robyn also gives you ideas on how to make a baby project - what kinds of yarns to use, what colors you should use, what you should leave off of a baby project, and how to baby-proof your work. These are things that you may not realize if you are making these projects as a gift for a new mother. But these are all things that Robyn has learned, first hand, because she is a new mother herself. And she wants to share them with you, so your new-baby gifts will be well-used, and loved!
Robyn also uses different stitches and stitch patterns in her designs - ones that you may not know or may not have used. So you can learn some new stitch patterns, and some new stitches. She uses post stitches (both front post and back post dc), front loop only and back loop only stitches, extended stitches, different versions of double crochet and single crochet stitches (including reverse single crochet),  and Tunisian stitches. So even if you don't have a baby or toddler to crochet for, Baby Blueprint Crochet is a wonderful resource to have. It's a pattern book, stitch dictionary, and how-to book all in one! Can't get any better than that!
For an example of what there is in the book, other than baby clothes, here's a picture of a baby washcloth that Robyn includes. It would make a great dishcloth if you don't know a baby to crochet for. Or make it a little bigger, and use it yourself. It comes with written directions, and a great stitch pattern diagram that is clear to read, and would be easy to enlarge.

If you want a sneak preview of the rest of the projects in Robyn's book, check out her flicker album here.

The Crochet Dude(r) and me

I met the Crochet Dude(r) at a CGOA (Crochet Guild of America) Chain Link conference in 2006. It was the first one he attended, and he didn't know many people. I knew who he was, though. I was the Professional Development Chairperson, he was an Associate Professional member, and I had been reading his blog on-line. We started talking, and we've been talking ever since. In just a few years, he has developed into "The Dude" of crochet – everyone is talking -about his designs, his professionalism, his product line, his pattern books, his cats, his cooking, etc.,etc., etc. You can't miss his publications – they're in bookstores, craft stores, yarn stores, and, of course, on Amazon. You can check out his new book, Crochet It, Love It, Wear It! here.
Even though we talk a lot whenever we see each other at Chain Links and TNNA events, we don't always talk crochet. (Don't ask what we do talk about!) And I've always wanted to find out more about Drew and crochet, what got him started designing, who or what influenced his career, and all those other deep questions that good friends don't usually talk about – and when he asked me to participate in this Blog Tour, I thought it would be a good opportunity to do so. So here are my questions, and his answers:


QUESTIONS FOR DREW

1. You were a Fine Arts major in college. Did that experience in any way influence or affect your decision to pursue a career as a Crochet designer?

It didn’t really affect my decision to become a designer, but it has affected how I approach my designs. Composition, color theory, muscle & bone structure, all the things that I studied in college come into play when I am designing.

2. You lived in Mexico for a while. Did that experience in any way influence your decision to pursue a career as a Crochet designer?

Living in Guadalajara all those years affected me deeply, and completely changed how I view the world, my family, and my friends. I take care of myself better, I have more compassion for others, and I enjoy every moment of my life. Somehow that must have influenced my becoming a designer.

3. When did you realize that being a Crochet designer was the career path you wanted to pursue? How did you go about it?

It sort of crept up on me. I had been crocheting for charity and someone in the group encouraged me to submit to a calendar for publication some afghan square designs that I had come up with just for fun. To my amazement the designs were published and I launched my blog to journal about breaking into the industry.

4. Where do you get your ideas? What inspires you? How do you keep your designs "fresh"?

I suppose it depends on what I am designing. For garments I look to the fashion trends and what I like to see people wearing. For home décor I look to architecture and nature for inspiration. I think my ideas stay fresh because once a design is set free from my studio I let it go. I know that there are infinite designs inside me just waiting to come out and I always look forward.

5. What was the inspiration for your book "Crochet It. Love It. Wear It!"?

My previous book, Designs for Guys, was as the title suggests, all stuff for dudes. I knew that this time I wanted to do one for the ladies. My inspiration came from lots of sources, my sisters, my late mother, and my friends.

6. Designers often have a "niche" – something (technique, design, yarn, etc.) that they are known for. What is your "niche"? What would you like to be your "niche"?

I don’t know if I’m known for it yet, but a common denominator in my designs is the texture of the fabric that I am creating. I rely heavily on post stitches to achieve maximum texture. I think in retrospect someday I’ll be known for textures.

7. What is the most intriguing thing about your Crochet design career?

The most intriguing thing for me is that I can run a complex design business out of a studio in my home. The latest technology has made it relatively simple to do and I find that fascinating.

8. What, if anything, do you crochet for yourself? What is your favorite type of: Pattern? Stitch? Technique?

I really don’t ever crochet for myself, I just don’t have the time. All my crochet time is dedicated to new designs. I don’t mind though, the design process is so fulfilling for me that I get the best of both worlds every day: the pleasure of crocheting and the stimulation of designing.

9. You've done so much with Crochet – designing, teaching, teaching on a cruise, TV show, branded crochet tools and accessories, just to name a few. What are your future plans (that you can share with us)?

The sky is the limit at this point. I’m continuing to expand upon what I have built so far and I like that it is growing organically. There is plenty of time to do so much more and I’m happily paying my dues and having the time of my life.

10. What words of wisdom do you have for other Crochet designers?
What words of wisdom do you have for other Crocheters?

For designers I would say let go and be free. Don’t worry or fuss about what you’ve already designed. Only move forward and trust that you will always be able to come up with new ideas whenever you need them.

For crocheters I would say challenge yourself and try patterns that you might not think you could do. You might surprise yourself and discover that you are an even better crocheter than you had once thought.

There was one more question that I had to ask him:
11. When are you going to name a design after me? I want my turn!
The Dude said: I've already answered that question in another interview!

Hmph! So now I guess I have to read all the other blogs on the blog tour to find the answer! In between drooling over the designs in his new book, and trying to figure out what yarn I'm going to use for my favorite one! (It's the one called Laurie.)







Check out his book, and all of Drew's other books and tools and gadgets and stuff. You'll be glad you did. You can find all this info on his blog:
the Crochet Dude(r)







And, you can buy it here.

The Dude posted this picture of us on his blog today - I had to repost it here!

I made the crocheted glasses at one of his "make and takes" (to make a necklace - I repurposed the materials)!

The Crochet Dude will be here Sunday, September 19, 2010

If you want to find out about The Crochet Dude (r) and his new book, I'll be blogging and posting about him and it on Sunday, September 19, 2010. Well, I may post late Saturday night, Eastern Daylight Time, so check the blog then. Until then, read the other blogs that have posted on the blog tour. Find out about them on the Dude's blog. And get to know all sides of the Dude!

Crochet Hook Sizes

If you look at a modern crochet hook, most likely the hook will have 3 things on it - other than the name of the company that manufactured it. These three things are a letter, a number, and a mm size.
These are the 3 common ways to designate hook sizes. Some companies use all 3 designations, some only one or two.
What can get confusing is that there is not a standard measurement for hooks. So one company's hook may have the same letter as another company's hook, but the mm size is different (i.e. an N in one company may be 10mm, in another it may be 9mm). That small difference may be just enough to alter your gauge. If a pattern calls for an N hook, and the designer used a 10mm N, but you use a 9mm N, your gauge may be off enough to really make a difference in the finished product. And you'll wonder why - you did use the hook that was called for. If the pattern doesn't list the mm size for the hook, it's really not your fault. If the mm size was listed along with the hook letter and the number, then you should make it a point to pick a hook based on the mm size. Crochet patterns should list mm sizes. Letters and numbers are fine for the hooks, but the mm size is the most important thing! If you remember that one little thing, you'll be way ahead!
One more thing to remember - some older hooks may have different mm sizes than newer ones from the same company. So, remember, the best thing to look for in a hook is the mm size.

Here are the commercially available size of hooks:
B-1, 2 mm or 2.5 mm
C-2, 2.75mm
D-3, 3.25mm
E-4, 3.5mm
F-5, 3.75mm
G-6, 4mm
G-7, 4.5mm
H-8, 5mm
I-9, 5.5mm
J-10, 6mm
K-10.5, 6.5mm
L-11, 8mm
M-13, 9mm
N-15, 10mm
P-16, 11.5mm

These are the commercially made hooks. There are other sizes, made by independent hook companies.
I hope this helps those who are confused by the variety of hook sizes and designations.

When is a Crochet Stitch Pattern Not a Crochet Stitch Pattern?

Recently, there has been some discussion on-line, and in my crochet classes, about the names of stitches and stitch patterns. One teacher posted on a message board that a student came to class with a pattern that listed a stitch pattern as a "seed stitch", but it wasn't the "seed stitch" she knew, so she was totally confused. The stitch that the student brought in was "sc in front loop, sc in back loop". The teacher was also confused - because she knew the "seed stitch" as "sc, *ch 1, skip a stitch, sc in next, repeat from *" and in the next row, sc over the ch-1 spaces, and ch-1 over the scs. Then someone else chimed in with another stitch that she knew as the seed stitch. And then I got curious. What do these stitches look like when they're placed side-by-side? So I made a swatch, using all thoses stitches, and more - because they reminded me of the knit "seed stitch". If you knit, you'll know that the "seed stitch" in knitting is Knit 1, Purl 1, across the row. On the next row, you Purl over what looks like a Knit stitch, and Knit over what looks like a Purl stitch. This creates a bumpy fabric. Almost like a miniature basket-weave. It's bumpy, then smooth, then bumpy, then smooth, etc. The next row is smooth over the bumps, and bumpy over the smooth part.
On my swatch, I crocheted first the "seed stitch" that i know - sc over the ch-1 space, ch 1 over the sc. Then 2 rows of plain sc to separate the stitches. Then, sc in the front loop, sc in the back loop. Then, 2 rows of plain sc. Then what's called the "Grit Stitch" (and "Alternate Stitch" and "Griddle Stitch"), which is "skip a stitch, 2 sc in one stitch, skip a stitch, and 2 sc in the next st, repeating across". Then, 2 rows of plain sc, and then the "Up/Down" stitch (*sc, dc, repeat from * across. Next row, dc in the scs, sc in the dcs), also called the "Cobble" stitch.
I'm sure these stitch patterns have other names, because names for stitch patterns are not standardized.
But, I can see, by looking at the stitch patterns worked in one swatch, like I did, that they look similar, and probably can be interchanged, if done with caution.
Here's the swatch:



So, why would you have to proceed with caution if you were switching stitch patterns? Take a close look at the swatch. I made it in one sitting. I was relaxed from the beginning. I used the same hook, the same yarn. I didn't have to add or subtract stitches to make the stitch patterns come out to the same number. It all worked like a dream - and yet, the swatch is wider at the top, the part that was done last. If this would happen to you, and you wanted to substitute the "Up/Down" stitch for the "Seed Stitch", your gauge would change.

Here are close up pictures of the 4 stitch patterns I used, on the order I worked them. The directions for these stitch patterns can be found in most stitch dictionaries. The directions I gave to describe the stitch patterns are just short-hand directions.

Here is the "seed stitch" as I know it:



Here is the "sc in the front loop, sc in the back loop" stitch pattern:



Here is the "Grit Stitch" stitch pattern:



Here's the last one - the "Up/Down" stitch pattern:



What did this experiment tell me? Lots of things.
1. Most important - names of crochet stitches and stitch patterns are not standardized! What one person calls Stitch A, another may call Stitch B. So - when you are working a pattern, and it calls for you to work a stitch pattern, but there is no explanation of the stitch pattern, that's not a good situation. If you are a designer, as I am, you should describe any and all stitch patterns that you use and name.
2. If you are a designer, and think you have designed a new stitch pattern, you should do a little research into it- find out if the same stitch pattern has already been "discovered" and named. You can find out from some stitch dictionaries, and/or pattern books. If it already has a name, don't rename it! That just causes confusion.

I know that there are many more stitches that are different, but that have the same name. And many stitches that have 2 or more names. Foundation sc and chainless sc are the same stitch with 2 different names. And often, bobbles, puff stitches, popcorn stitches, berry stitches, clusters, knots, and shells are interchanged by mistake. I'm teaching some special Tunisian classes, and in my research on Tunisian crochet stitches, I've discovered, so far, three different Tunisian Purl stitches. I bet there are more!

I'll post soon on the Tunisian Purl stitches. Keep in touch!

Oh - the answer to the question - When is a Crochet Stitch Pattern not a Crochet Stitch Pattern? What do you think?

Crochet Tote Bag

The Project: You want to make a round, bucket-type tote bag. You want the bottom worked in a solid stitch - like a single crochet. You want the top worked in a lacy stitch pattern, like shells.
The Problem: How do you figure out how many rounds of the solid stitch to work for the bottom? How do you figure out how many shells to work, and how to space them?

The Answer: Decide how wide you want the tote, when it's folded flat. That will be the approximate diameter of the bottom circle. (For those of you who were dreaming of your boyfriend or girlfriend during your high school geometry class, the diameter of a circle is the line drawn from edge to edge through the center of the circle.) So, crochet a circle that will be approximately that diameter. You can end each round, or crochet in a spiral. This is up to you. But if you're crocheting in a spiral, and not ending each round, you still should end the last round. Do this: when you get to the last stitch of the round (you did mark the last stitch of each round, didn't you?), do your stitch in the last stitch, and then slip stitch in the next stitch. Of course, I'm assuming you're working in single crochet. If you worked your circle in double crochet, you should end your last round with 2 half double crochets, and then 2 single crochets. That should get you to the last stitch. Then do a slip stitch in the next stitch. If you worked your circle in half double crochets, then end your round with 2 single crochets. Then slip stitch in next stitch.
Okay, are you with me so far?
Next step - decide the stitch and stitch pattern you want to use for the sides of the bag. Once you have that, figure out the repeat count. How many base stitches does each repeat take? Divide that number into the number of stitches in your last round of the bottom circle. Hope it divides evenly. If it does, then you can space the stitches so that one pattern repeat will take up the same number of stitches as the answer to the above division problem.
Here's an example.
I have 90 stitches in my last round. I want to work a shell pattern that uses 4 base stitches per repeat. Here is the pattern:
*sc in first stitch, skip one stitch, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in next stitch, skip one stitch. Repeat from * around.
Do you see where the pattern takes up 4 stitches per repeat?
"sc in first stitch" - that's one.
"skip one stitch" - that's two.
"(2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next stitch" - that's three.
"skip one stitch" - that's four.
Okay, you have 4 stitches per pattern. And 90 stitches all together. 90 divided by 4 = 22.5. Oh oh - it's not even. So my pattern repeat will not be able to repeat the full pattern at the end. So I have to do something.
I need to change the pattern repeat to some number that goes into 90 evenly. Like 6. If I skip 2 sts between the sc and the (2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) shell, on both sides of the shell, that will add 2 more stitches to each pattern repeat, giving me 6 stitches for each pattern repeat. And 90 divided by 6 = 15.
I might have to do one more thing to the shell, so it doesn't get too stretched out trying to spread over so many stitches. I may have to add a ch-1 on both sides of the dcs.
Here's my new pattern:
*sc in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, (ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1) in next st, skip 2 stitches. Repeat from * around.
There - that should do it. My stitch pattern takes up 6 stitches.
Here is the breakdown.
"sc in first st" - that's one.
"skip 2 stitches" - that's two and three.
"(ch 1, 2dc, ch 1, 2dc, ch 1) in next stitch" - that four.
"skip 2 stitches" - that's five and six.

Here's a picture of the bottom of the bag - a circle - with the first row of the side shells. You can see that there are 15 shells around the perimeter.



And here's a close up picture of some of the pattern repeats. You can see that each repeat uses up 6 sc stitches along the last round of the bottom.

Yarn is yarn? Worsted is worsted?

Yarn is yarn, right? And cotton yarn is cotton yarn. And worsted weight yarn is worsted weight yarn. So if you have a pattern that uses cotton worsted weight yarn, you can just substitute another cotton worsted weight yarn in that pattern, and it should be okay. Right? Well, no. That's not right.

Let me tell you what a designer does when she or he thinks up a design. I'll tell you what I do, at least. If I can choose the yarn I want to use, I think of the design. Is it a tote? It needs a sturdy yarn. Is it a scarf? It needs a flowing yarn. Is it a sweater? It needs a yarn that will drape the way I want the sweater to drape, and that won't be so heavy it will stretch out of shape. Sometimes, the editor of the book or magazine will choose the yarn, and most of the time it's the right choice. When I get to choose the yarn, I can swatch with different yarns, and see which swatch works the best for the design. Now, when the pattern gets published, I often hear about people making the design using a different yarn. And I encourage that. To an extent. You have to be very careful when you change yarns, if you want to get the same feel, effect, etc., of the original design. I thought I would do a little experiment to show you what I mean.

I crocheted two swatches - one in Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece, the other in LionBrand Recycled Cotton. The Cotton Fleece label says the yarn is 80% cotton, 20% Merino wool. The skein weighs 3.5 oz, (100 grams), and has approximately 215 yards. The yarn weight is 3, which is a little lighter than worsted. They suggest you use a needle size 6, which is 4mm, and is comparable to a G-6, 4.00 hook. The Recycled Cotton, which is a new yarn that I was eager to try (and I like it tremendously), is 74% recycled cotton, 24% acrylic, and 2% other fiber. The skein weighs the same as the Cotton Fleece, 3.5 oz, 100 grams. But it has only 185 yards, because the yarn weight is 4, which is worsted weight. They suggest you use an I-9, 5.5mm hook with it. So - you can say these yarns are not really equivalent. Oh, yes, the gauge for the Cotton Fleece is 5 stitches per inch, or 20 stitches for 4 inches, using the recommended knitting needle. They don't give a crochet gauge. For the Recycled Cotton, the gauge is 13 sc, or 18 stitches (knitting) to 4 inches. You can see the gauge is not the same with these yarns.

I crocheted 2 swatches, one in each yarn. One right after another, so I was relaxed for both of them. (Gauge can change when you are tense, or relaxed, or pick up your crocheting at different times.) And, instead of using a G hook, or an I hook, I used the one in the middle of these two, an H hook.

I got interesting results. But first - which yarn do you think would be thicker? The #4 weight - worsted - or the #3 weight - light worsted or dk? You'd think the worsted would be a heavier yarn, right? Check this picture out.



The beige yarn is the #4 - Recycled Cotton. The turquoise is the #3, Cotton Fleece. The Cotton Fleece looks thicker than the Recycled Cotton, even though it's a #3, and the Recycled Cotton is a #4. Hmmm? Interesting.

Now, what about the swatches? Do you think one would be longer and wider than the other? Check this picture out.



They are both about the same size. If one is wider, it looks like the Cotton Fleece is a little wider than the Recycled Cotton. I used a larger hook than called for on the Cotton Fleece swatch, and it is at least as big, maybe bigger, than the Recycled Cotton swatch - on which I used a smaller hook than called for. And finally, I wish you could touch the swatches through your computer. When you want to crochet a fabric that drapes, one way to do it is to use a bigger hook than called for - which is what I did with the Cotton Fleece. And when you want to make a stiff fabric, you usually use a smaller hook. Which is what I did with the Recycled Cotton. So, the Cotton Fleece is nice and drapey; the Recycled Cotton is nice and stiff. I would definitely use the Recycled Cotton in a purse or tote, or something that I want to have some body. I would defiinitely use the Cotton Fleece in something that I want soft and flowing and drapey. Like a sweater. Plus, because the Cotton Fleece is so soft, I don't think it will stretch much when worn. However, the Recycled Cotton may.

So, what does this all mean? Well, when you substitute yarn in a design, be sure you substitute yarn that will give you the same look as the original; yarn that will behave the same as the original. That is so important! If you use a different yarn than one that's called for, but use the same hook size, you may end up with a tote that has no body, or a sweater that can stand up by itself! (It may even happen with a different size hook.)