How to read Crochet patterns, Part 2

In Part 1, I stopped when we got to "What is gauge?" You can also ask - "Is gauge important?" And what about "Why does my gauge change when I'm in the middle of a project?" And "Does yarn of the same weight have the same gauge?"

I know I'll think of other questions to answer, so let's just get going.

What is Gauge?
Gauge is not some mysterious number that the yarn companies come up with. No - gauge is the number of stitches per inch, and the number of rows per inch. So how do the yarn companies determine the gauge for their yarns? Probably, someone knits or crochets with them, and counts how many stitches and rows per inch. Then, that's the gauge of that yarn, using the hook or needle that was used to determine the gauge. However, it may not be the gauge that the designer gets when she/he uses that yarn to design a project. The designer may use the same size hook or needle, or a different size - depending upon the look that she/he wants to achieve with the fabric. So the designer determines the gauge for the project. Is that important? Well, depends upon the project. If you're making a sweater, or garment that is to be worn, the answer is YES! Gauge is important! If you're making a scarf, dishcloth, purse, tote, shawl, etc., where size doesn't really matter, then gauge doesn't really matter. EXCEPT you will maybe need more yarn if your gauge is not the same as the given gauge. So, gauge is what someone gets when they crochet or knit, and counts the stitches in an inch. Although, gauge is usually written as over 4". For example, 16 sc = 4", and 12 rows = 4".



Does yarn of the same weight have the same gauge? Not always.


This picture shows 3 examples of "kitchen" cotton yarns. Labels on the yarns say they are worsted weight. To make the samples, I used the same hooks (more on that later), and the same number of stitches and rows (I did run out of yarn on the middle swatch before the rows were complete.) On each swatch, I started with a G hook, and went to an H, an I, and a J, so you could see the gradual change in stitch gauge as I used different size hooks. You can also see that the row gauge changes. You could successfully use any of the 4 hook sizes, or even other sizes, with these yarns, depending upon the look you want. If you want a tight fabric, use a smaller hook. For a looser fabric, use a larger hook. And if the pattern is written for one yarn, and you use another equivalent yarn, and the same size hook, you may not get the same gauge or fabric.

One thing that I see more and more now. On the ball bands for the yarns, many companies are noting the hook size to use to get a certain gauge, along with the knitting needle size. That is really a positive move! But beware. Often, the given hook size is the same as the given needle size, and even though your gauge may be right on the mark, remember that the size of the hook (and the size of the needle) is just a recommendation. You don't have to use that size with the yarn! Also remember, knitting stitches are different than crochet stitches. Knit stitches are more like weaving. Crochet stitches are more like knotting. So the crochet fabric made with the same size hook as recommended for knitted fabric will be thicker! Knots are thick!

Whew! That's a lot to remember! But there is one other important thing about gauge you need to know! Hook sizes are not always standard. One N hook from one manufacturer may not be the same size as an N hook from another manufacturer. So if the directions call for an N (or any other "lettered" size), you need to know the millimeter (mm) size before proceeding.

Sometimes, two different hooks from the same manufacturer, with the same letter designation and the same mm size, will also be different. I found this out recently! I picked up a bag with a sweater that I had started about 6 months ago. I wanted to finish it this past weekend. I always leave the crochet hook that I've used with the project in the bag with the project, because I know that sometimes, crochet hooks can be different. When I first started the sweater, I was using a regular Susan Bates Silvalume hook. But I've recently changed to the Susan Bates Silvalumes with the bamboo handles. So, I took from my hook case the same size bamboo handle hook. And then I looked at both hooks. They really looked different - in the head and throat and finger rest. Here is a picture:



The hook on the left is the one with the bamboo handle. They are both marked with the same letter size and the same mm size. But you can see a definite difference between them. I'm not complaining about this, I'm just noting it here. I do know that as much as I love my regular Susan Bates Silvalume hooks, I absolutely ADORE the new ones with the bamboo handles. And whenever I recommend them to my students, whether they have been using the regular Bates Silvalume, or another brand, they fall in love with these new ones, also. So I think that the subtle change in shape and size is a plus! A definite improvement !

So, to make a long story short, changing your crochet hook can also affect gauge. Even if you use the same brand. That's why I keep the hook with the project!

There are a few more things that can affect gauge, and I'll talk about them in the next installment!
Stay tuned!

How to read crochet patterns

I teach crochet classes at a lys, and this morning, one of my new, beginner students, asked me to show her how to read a crochet pattern. I had showed her how to chain, single crochet, and double crochet, and she wanted to know more. Another student who was working from a pattern, offered to let me use her pattern as an example, so that she could learn some things, too. As I was going over some of the beginning information, I thought it would be helpful to talk about some of it here, because I get questions about reading patterns all the time.

First of all, I suggest reading the pattern all the way through, before you start crocheting. Mark places where you have questions.
Then, here are the usual parts of the pattern:
SIZES. These are usually written like this: XS(S, M, L, XL) But what does that mean? What measurement is an XS? You'll need to look at the numbers next to these letters. They might look like this: 32"(36", 40", 44"), and be under the heading: FINISHED MEASUREMENTS.
What does that mean? Well, it means the measurements of the finished garment. Not your body measurements, but the GARMENT measurements. So if you had a chest size of 32" and you want to make a sweater with "positive ease", your finished measurement might be 36" or 40", or however much "ease" you want. Which leads to - what is "ease"? "Ease" is the amount of room you have between you and the garment. "Positive ease" is roomy - bigger than your body measurement. Some patterns, however, require "negative ease" - smaller than your body measurement. These garments could be meant to be worn tight, or they could be very lacy and loosely crocheted, so that they would stretch quite a bit. If you need to be concerned about "negative ease", very often it will be mentioned somewhere at the beginning of a pattern - the Notes section, probably.

Okay, we know the garment comes in 4 sizes, and we have to choose which size to make. All of the directions from here on will have choices for different sizes. You might have a direction that says: Ch 25(41, 57, 73). If you were making the XS (extra small) size, you would chain 25. If you were making the L (large) size, you would chain 57. It's a good idea to go through the pattern and highlight the directions for the size that you want to make.

Somewhere, after FINISHED MEASUREMENTS, there will be a section for MATERIALS. (It may be separated from the directions.) This section covers yarn, hook size or sizes, and anything extra that you may need.
I'll talk about yarns and hooks in another post - there is a lot to say about each!

The next part is usually GAUGE. This is measured, usually over 4", but sometimes over another inch measure - it depends on the stitch pattern and how long it is. A simple gauge description is: 16 sc and 8 rows = 4".
But what if you have a pattern stitch. Then this would be how it is designated: 4 pattern repeats and 4 rows = 4".
Sometimes, patterns don't give you the row gauge, just the stitch gauge. And remember, this is figured using the hook size that was in the MATERIALS section along with the yarn that was listed there.
Now, this is all just simple math, but my student asked me "What is gauge?" So, I'm asking you. What is gauge?

I'm going to talk about it in my next post! Think about it until then, and if you think you have an answer, post a comment, please!

The next part of a pattern is usually the stitches used, and any special stitch pattern. In this section, the abbreviations for the stitches and stitch pattern are given. We used abbreviations so that we don't have to write out the stitches each and every time. "Dc" is a lot easier and quicker to write than "double crochet". And it saves space - really important in print!

Then, there are the NOTES. This is a section that will tell you things that you need to know about the pattern. Perhaps that it is worked in the round, or side to side. There may be a note about crocheting the pieces in the correct order, and then connecting them. There is all kinds of information in the notes - don't forget to read them!

So - I've taken you through the first part of reading a pattern. I'll be continuing this, with the answer to the question: What is gauge? And I'll talk about hooks and yarns. Then, I'll go through the typical pattern, line by line.

'Til next time!