Wednesday, August 20, 2008

wrong side, right side, which side is which?

One question that I frequently get asked is "How do you determine the wrong side from the right side of a crochet piece?" Well, remember how the designer determines the gauge? It's the designer's choice, essentially. So is the wrong side and right side of a crocheted fabric. Some fabrics look "better" on one side, some stitches have "right sides" and "wrong sides", but generally speaking, it's a design decision!

So the RS and WS of fabric is determined by the designer. That's not the case, though, with stitches.
Let's look at what I just wrote about stitches having a wrong side and a right side. Most stitches, when you make them, you will be working them on their "right" side. You may be on the "wrong" side of the fabric, or you might be on the "right" or "public" side of the fabric. But the stitches have a slightly different look if you turn the fabric around and look at the other side. Certain stitches, however, like the loop stitch, or a popcorn or bullion stitch, have a definite difference between the front and the back of the stitch. Usually, when you work a loop stitch, you work it on the wrong side of the fabric, because you want the loops to be on the front side of the fabric. So you can say you are really working the loop stitch on it's "wrong" side. The "right" side would be the side with the loops.

Are you confused yet? That's probably because "right" side and "wrong" side have many different meanings. You have "right" and "wrong" side of the fabric (abbreviated RS and WS in directions), "right" and "wrong" side of stitches, "right" and "left" side of the piece as you are working it, and "right" and "left" side of the garment as you are wearing it.

When the directions say: Row 1 (RS) ............ , that means that the row you are working on (Row 1), as you are working it, will be the "right" side, or public side of the fabric.

How do you tell the "right" and "wrong" side of stitches? If you look at the fabric as you are making it, you can see the top of the stitches. They look like they form a chain. That's usually the "right" side of the stitches. Turn the fabric over, and you can't see the tops anymore. That's usually the "wrong" side of the stitches.

Right side of the piece as you are working on it will be the side by your right hand. Left side is the side by your left hand.

But right side of the garment as you are wearing it means just that - the side that's on the right when you wear it. Ditto for left!

How do you know which row to end with, if the directions say "End on a RS row."? If Row 1 is a RS row, then all the odd numbered rows are RS rows. So if the directions say "end on a RS row", you'll finish with an odd numbered row. If the directions say "end with a WS row", you'll finish with an even numbered row.

I know pictures will help with this discussion. So, I'll be working on some samples today, and post them asap! If you have any questions about all of this, please ask me - post a comment.

And, know that you're not alone in this - this is a confusing part of crochet patterns!

76 comments:

Winter Lily said...

Hello! I found your blogs very informative but I was wondering if I could possibly ask for your help interpreting a pattern? I hope you have a lovely day. Take care! ^.^

~Aly

Del said...

For my beginner classes, I tell them that they always know the right side because the tail left before the beginning chain is a marker in a way. With the tail to their left, they're always looking at the usual right side.

But really, the right side or the outside is a relative thing. Crochet done in the round or done in rows can have a different right side or outside.

I think this is one of those things that really confuses beginning and even intermediate crocheters. If the pattern writer doesn't tell the crocheter in the beginning, it might not be all that clear.

Anonymous said...

HELLO,I HAVE A 6 MTH OLD BABY PATTERN AND WANT TO TURN IT INTO A 12 MTH OLD PATTERN. HOW WOULD I DO THIS??

Marty Miller said...

Without knowing the pattern stitches, I would advise you to go to the Craft Yarn Council's web site, and look for the Standards and Guidelines page. They have the measurements for babys, children, and adults. This is the page for the baby sizes: http://www.yarnstandards.com/babysize.html
You can take the necessary measurements they give you, and with your gauge, you should be able to figure out how many stitches you need in each row, and how many rows you would need to alter your pattern to the size you want.
You could also draw a schematic with the size for the 12 month old, but in the shape of the 6 month baby pattern, and then just crochet to fit the schematic.
I hope this helps!

Sarah said...

Hi Crochet doctor

I was hoping you would be able to answer this for me. When I finish a piece of crochet, which side is the right side?

- Sarah

Marty Miller said...

Which side of your crochet is the Right SIde would depend upon a lot of things. The easiest way to tell is if one pattern row or round has the initials (RS) or words "Right Side" beside the number of the row or round. If the number is an even number, then when you are working on the even number rows or rounds, you are working on the RS. If the number is an odd number, than the odd number rows or rounds are the RS.
If there is no designation of RS in the pattern or in the pattern notes, than you should take a look at the stitches and the pattern they make. If there is a difference, then the one that looks the best is usually the right side. If the pattern is worked in Rounds, you usually work on the RS of the fabric when you make the rounds. And if the pattern seems reversible - in other words, there is no difference between sides - then it's up to you which is the RS.
Hope this helps!

Anonymous said...

So, if a pattern states that the first row is a wrong side row, its just a way of "marking" which side is which? You don't have to do anything differently while working the pattern, just note it at then end?

Peg

Marty Miller said...

Correct - you don't have to do anything different. Just note that the first row you did is worked on the wrong side of the fabric. You can mark it with a pin, a bobby pin, or tie a piece of yarn to one side. Or - if you can count the rows you finished, if Row 1 is a WS row, then every odd numbered row is also WS.

Unknown said...

My pattern says to work the RS only. I do not know how to come to the end of a row, turn, and work the RS. Will I need to crochet backwards?
Thanks,
Carrie

Marty Miller said...

Hi Carrie,
Does the pattern call for you to crochet in the round, without turning? Then, you would only crochet on the RS. If the pattern is written in rows, not rounds, then perhaps in the NOTES section, it tells you what to do. You can always end off at the end of one row, and start the next row where the previous row started.
What are you making?

Unknown said...

It is a Diamond Trellis. I got it from a yarn wrapper. It says to work rows 2-9 13 more times with right side still facing. It does not give me any other info. I thought about stopping at the end of a row and starting again at the other end; however, I did not know if I could do that.

Marty Miller said...

I checked the pattern out on-line. I think you missed a punctuation mark. Or the pattern on the label was misprinted. This is what the on-line pattern says:
"Rep Rows 2-9 thirteen more times; with right side still facing, work sc edging evenly across top edge. Fasten off. Rep edging on opposite edge. Weave in ends."
You missed the ";" between "times" and "with". What the pattern wants you to do is to turn every row. Then, the last row you work will be the RS (it's an odd numbered row - and the first line of the pattern says Row 1 is the RS - so all odd numbered rows are on the RS), and don't turn. Continue with the SC edging along the top of the afghan. Then, work the same edging along the bottom.
Hope this helps.

Unknown said...

That helps alot. Thank you so much!

Island Beads said...

Crochet Doctor,

I have a question regarding a pattern that you did for MODA DEA called "Crocheted Vision Hat WM0305."
I love the pattern you did but I am having a problem when I get to Rows14-72. The pattern reads Rows 14-72: Rep Rows 2-13 4 more times. It is not adding up. If I repeat rows 2-13, when I get to row 72 that completes row 12 and not 13. This is my second time trying to make this hat, I really would like to make it. Could you post a correction or let me know what I'm doing wrong.

Thanks

Anonymous said...

Question regarding a hat pattern that you did for Moda Dea. It is the
WM0305 Crocheted Vision Hat pattern. I asked another person to attempt the pattern and they had the same problem. The problem begins at rows 14-72. The pattern reads: Rows 14-72: Rep Rows 2-13 4 more times. If you repeat these rows the row 72 stops at Row 12 and not 13. I am really interested in completing the hat. PLEASE PLEASE ASSIST.

Thanks Tawana

Marty Miller said...

I just returned from Chain Link and the Knit and Crochet Show in Buffalo, NY. I will look at my copy of the pattern, and see if there is a typo in the pattern - or if something is left out, or just what is wrong. I'll get back to you just as soon as I can with the correction.
Marty

Marty Miller said...

It seems that there is something missing from the pattern you have. This is what I wrote:
"Rows 14 – 72: Repeat Rows 2 through 13 four more times. Then repeat Rows 2 through 12 one time. Ch 1, turn at the end."
So - after you repeat rows 2 - 13 four times, then repeat rows 2 - 12 one more time. That will get you to Row 72.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more problems.
Marty

Island Beads said...

Thank you sooooooooooooo much for responding. I will let you know how my hat turns out. I can't wait to finish it. Thanks again.

Anonymous said...

Hi I am trying to do a crochet Name Doily for my daughter and would like to ask you if there is a book that you can recommend that can help me out with this. There is nothing on the net that helps Hass Designs, Smart Crochet, and Crochetdoilys have been no help. No one seems to have a book or anything that would help those of us who have not done Name Doilys before. Any help you could give me would be great.

Thanks
Brenda

Marty Miller said...

I know there were books published about Filet Name Doilies so I googled it, and these are the sites I came up with that I think would have some good books about name doilies:
http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/1115059/how_to_graph_a_pattern_for_a_filet.html?cat=24

http://www.countryyarns.com/hc001.htm

http://www.anniesattic.com/crochet/list.html?cat_id=401

http://www.hassdesign.com/FiletCrochetDesigns/IP/FiletDoily/OvalDoilies/

Hope this helps!

Anonymous said...

I am making your spiderweb cardigan and am confused about how to begin the back. There is no fasten off, so I do not know where to continue from>
It says divide for right armhole.What rows do I count to begin the back. Are the FDC across the bottom and the webs worked vertically?

thanks,
ellen in Huston

Marty Miller said...

The body of the sweater is made in one piece. It's worked vertically, from one front edge to the other. So you don't end off when you start the back. You continue, and when you get to the armhole, you do foundation double crochet stitches, to make the armhole. Then you continue on with the back, until the other armhole. Work foundation dc where the directions tell you to, and continue on to make the other part of the front. Then you end off. And then add the sleeves.
Hope this helps.

Cheryl said...

I'm currently working on a pattern that states to "sc into side of last sc of prev rnd'...I've been crocheting for years and have never seen a pattern or heard of stitching into the side of a stitch. What is meant by this? Are they talking about the front 'bars' that make up a sc, that's where I'm suppose to create this new sc stitch? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Marty Miller said...

I'm not sure what they mean, either. Are you working the pattern in the round? Is this supposed to be a joining stitch? Or is this going to be an edging? If it's an edging, then work into the side of the stitch, underneath the "leg" on the side and the strand that's almost behind it. If it's a joining stitch, then usually they are worked into the top of the stitch. The nice thing about crochet is that it is user-friendly and easy to undo - so you can try what you think is best, and see if it works. If it does - great. If it doesn't, try something else!

Rebecca from ChemKnits said...

Thank you so much! I just started crocheting and I've been having issues telling RS from WS when the designer does not specify.

Marty Miller said...

Glad I can help!

Unknown said...

I can see it's been some time since anyone commented on this entry but I am in dire need of guidance and this was really the only result from my Google search that gave me any information at all and you seem to be so knowledgeable. I am working a pattern that uses motifs which you join after they are each completed and in the notes after each one it says "Hold the First and Second motifs together with WS of Motifs together, sts matching, and RS of Second Motif facing you." I am so confused by this statement - it seems contradictory and I can't be sure if "WS" refers to turning the piece over or not, especially since it says "RS" of 2nd motif facing me. Wha? Could you help me? I just need to know if I should be turning the pieces over to join them? My only guess is that they could be instructing this to hide the slip stitches?

Marty Miller said...

When the directions say to hold the motifs together with WS together, they mean WS facing each other. So the RS of each motif is on the outside. The WS of each in inside. When you crochet the motifs together, you will be working through the front motif, RS facing you, through to the back motif, whose RS is facing away from you. Think what would happen if you would fold a motif with the WS inside. You would have the RS on the outside, and the WS on the inside. That's what you want with 2 motifs.
Language like this can get a little complicated sometimes - but I hope this helped!
Marty

Unknown said...

Wow what a quick response! I dont think I've ever gotten such a timely answer to a pattern question! So just to confirm, what they're basically asking me to do is place the motifs back to back and join them. So if you displayed the joined pieces, neither side would be "wrong".

Marty Miller said...

You're right. Back to back (that's a good way to say WS to WS), so when the motifs are placed flat after they are joined, you can see the RS (or the front) of both motifs!

Anonymous said...

Could you please show a picture of a square crocheted peice showing a rt side and another square showing the wrong side..or a circle( Rounds) with the same.please. My name is Jacklyn I am so confused Thank-you.

Marty Miller said...

The best thing you can do is to reread the blog post. Especially where I say that Right Side and Wrong Side of the fabric is really determined by the designer. And you can talk about RS and WS of the fabric, but you can also talk about RS and WS of a stitch. Most stitches you work on the RS of that stitch. You can tell the RS if you look at the top of the stitch as you crochet it. When you yarn over, and pull through all loops, the final step of the stitch, those loops form a structure that looks like a chain on the top of the stitch. So- look at the top of the stitch from the viewpoint of where you were when you made the stitch. You can see the "chain", , so you're looking at the RS of the stitch (for most stitches). Now, turn your work so you're looking at the other side of the fabric. You can't see the chain, so you're looking at the WS of the stitch. BUT, that doesn't mean it's the WS of the fabric. That is up to the designer. She (or he) will determine which side will be the RS and which will be the WS.
When you are working in the round, and not turning after each round, most of the time you'll be working on the RS of the fabric as you make each stitch.
It helps if you learn to "read" your stitches. Look at them carefully as you crochet them. Look to see where the strands of yarn go when they leave your hook. Which ones form the top of the stitch, which ones form the post of the stitch. That should help.

Anonymous said...

Hi Crochet doctor, I have crocheted a kimono duster coat but after finishing it I realized that it is too long. What shall I do to shorten it. I can not just undo the ends as I had crocheted the panels horizontally. Please help me.

Marty Miller said...

Because there are many ways to take care of this problem, I really recommend the Craftsy Class by Linda Permann -
http://www.craftsy.com/ext/MartyMiller_471
Professional Finishing for Perfect Crochet – Linda Permann

She explains how to cut your crochet, and how to make sure it doesn't unravel. And you can watch Craftsy classes at home, whenever you want. And slow the video down, replay the parts you want to see over again, ask questions of the teacher, and the class is yours, forever. It's much easier to learn this way.

Unknown said...

I'm crocheting Redhead Baby Girl Sweater LW225 . The instructions read "..end with wrong side row ch1,sl st in next 4sts,ch2 hdc to end turn". My question, do I turn the work at ch1 or do I work 4sl sts on wrong side (working backwards?) This is my 1st attempt at making a garment.

Marty Miller said...

Do the directions for the WS rows end with "turn"? Because I think that's what is meant here. Turn, and then do the ch-1 and slip stitches and the rest of that row.
Note - while you can do sc, and other stitches backwards, it's possible, but very difficult to work a slip stitch backwards. And if the pattern wanted you to do that, they should have explained how to do it. So, I think you're correct to turn, and then work the slip stitches.

Unknown said...

I am wondering how to start a new row if I'm supposed to be working row by row, right to left, on the right side of the fabric.

I am working on http://littlewoollie.blogspot.com.au/p/mixed-stitch-stripey-blanket-crochet.html . The notes from many of those who said they worked on it said that they should have done each row from right to left (all on the front side.) If this is the case, I don't know how to join a new color to the piece to start the next row.

I actually did the first five rows of hdc by turning the piece (right, then wrong, side), but if I want to start the first stitches of the granny stitch row, how do I join in to the top of the turning chain from the last hdc row?

I hope I explained correctly. (The first time the words "on wrong side" is found in the first row of the chevron-type pattern.)

Marty Miller said...

If you're supposed to be working on the RS only, then you end off each row when you finish it. If you crochet right-handed, that will be on the left edge of the piece. Then you start the next row on the right edge. How to join the yarn? There are many ways to join at the beginning of the row. You can do a slip stitch with the new yarn, and then chain however many the directions tell you to, and go on from there. Or you can do what is called a "standing" start - make a slip knot on your hook, and start the first stitch in the beginning of the row. Remember, that's on the right edge of the piece if you're right-handed.
The main thing to remember is that you join to the first stitch of the row below, not the last stitch (that's on the wrong edge), and not the first stitch of two rows below.
I hope this helps!

Unknown said...

Thank you. Perfect. I had never had to just slip stitch into a new row and for some reason it was very difficult for me to picture it being so easy.

Your description of the right side of the stitch showing the V's helped me a lot, too. The pictures in my book show them along the top, so I was even having a hard time knowing exactly where to slip in my hook. I've been using Lion Brand Homespun to make a couple of prayer shawls so I just felt lucky to grab hold of two yarns. It is so difficult to actually see the stitches. Now after really checking out the stitch I'm in, back and down a little, hitting the V every time, crocheting with abandon.

Marty Miller said...

You're welcome!
Homespun is a great yarn to use, but in order to see your stitches, you need to use a large hook when you crochet with it. I usually use an N/15, 10mm hook with it. Also, if you can't see the chains to work into them at the beginning, you may be interested in my class on Mastering Foundation Crochet Stitches on Craftsy. Foundation stitches are the stitches where you make just one chain, then the stitch that goes into it, then you make the next chain, and the stitch that goes into it, etc. So you never have to crochet a whole lot of chains at once, and then try to see each one separately! If you're interested, here's a 50% off link for the class: www.craftsy.com/ext/MartyMiller_4809_H

Unknown said...

Hey, Awesome! Thanks.

Unknown said...

I am working on a pattern for a tailgating table runner I got from the Red Heart website. For the main section of the piece The instructions say on the right side working in back humps only sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. That part I understand it's the next part I am not sure about. Rows 2-41 ch 1, sc in each sc across, do not turn. So do I again only work in the back bumps and if I do not turn my work what do I do next? How do I work the next row without turning ? Many thanks!! Donna

Marty Miller said...

I think there is a mistake in the written pattern. For Rows 2 - 40, you should ch1, than sc in each sc across, and TURN at the end of the rows. Then work Row 41 the same way, but do not turn at the end of the row. That's where the "do not turn" belongs - at the end of Row 41. You'll be on the Right Side (it's the side with the odd numbered rows), and you can follow the directions for the Edging, working in the ends of the rows.
And when you do work into each sc in rows 2 through 41, work under the top two loops of the single crochet stitches in the row below. Working under the back bumps of the chain is done only when you work into the chain. In this case, it's only on the first row.
Hope this helps,
Marty Miller

Unknown said...

I suspected that might be the case but it's good to have confirmation. Thank you so very much!!

Donna

Marty Miller said...

You're welcome! Remember, crochet is very user-friendly, and if you try something, but it doesn't work, you can always frog it and try something else.

Unknown said...

Hi Marty, I am trying to make a doll out of Annie's Crochet---by Sally Byrne "Crochet Your Own Dolls...." The shirt for the nurse doll, Row 13 goes like this: Row 13 (RS): Now working in rows, s in each of the next 12 sc,..... I tried doing what I thought was right (there is no explanation as to what that RS is and we just left off working in rounds) Got to Row 20 where it says : With RS facing, sk next 2 sc on rnd 12...." Thought I figured that out but when I got to the following Row 25: With RS facing, join in next sc on rnd 12..... I got lost. I can give you all of the directions if you need them but I am so puzzled as to what they mean by Right Side here.
Thank you for any help you can give, I tried to find something from them online but couldn't and they don't show step by step, only the finished product.
Catherine Mesa

Marty Miller said...

Before Row 13, you were probably working in Rounds, not Rows. When you work in Rounds, most of the time you don't turn your work at the end of the Round, so you're working on the Right Side of the work. So after you finish the last Round, don't turn. Just follow the directions for Row 13 - and that's a Right Side Row. So all Odd numbered rows are Right Side rows. And, Round 12 probably has some unworked stitches in it - and when you finish Row 24, and get to Row 25, you join your yarn to the first unworked stitch on Round 12, but make sure it's on the RS of the work - in other words, after you finish Row 24, with is a Wrong Side Row, turn your work to start the next Row - Row 25, a Right Side Row, which starts at Round 12.
Also most of the time, the abbreviation RS is right by the first occurrence of a Right Side Row, so you can tell what's what. Or, it'll say something in the notes to the pattern.
Hope this helps and isn't too confusing!

Roni said...

Hi! I have a question about a pattern for fingerless mittens with a flap. When starting on the flap it says to work on the wrong side. Does that mean I literally turn the pattern wrong side out to attach the start of the flap and then create the flap?

Marty Miller said...

You don't necessarily have to turn the mittens inside out to work on the wrong side. Some of my students just crochet from the inside of the mittens. However, it is usually easier to turn the mittens inside out. I'm assuming you're working the mittens in the round. If so, just make sure that you're working on the wrong side of the mittens, however you're doing it, and where-ever the wrong side is.

Rebecca said...

I have completed row 1 and I am at a loss as what to do to start row 2?!? Help Please!!


Row 1 - 1 s c in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, work 2 d c in same st, * skip 2 sts, 1 s c, ch 2 and 2 d c all in next st, repeat from *, ending skip 2 sts, 1 s c in last st. Do not turn.

Row 2 - Working from same side as last row, join C C in first s c of last row, ch 1, 1 s c in first s c, * work 2 d c, ch 2 and 1 s c in next s c, repeat from * across row, working off last s c with M C, ch 2, turn.

Marty Miller said...

It seems that the directions want you to work 2 rows before you turn. So after you finish with the first row, you have to drop your first yarn - MC, and then join the second yarn (CC) at the beginning of the first row, and work that. Then drop CC, working the last yarn over on the last sc with the first yarn - MC, then ch 2 and turn. Then you work the first yarn -MC for one row, And I would imagine yarn CC for one row before turning (just like you did for Rows 1 and 2).
Make sure you know how to change colors - when you do your last yarn over of the stitch with the old color, do that yarn over with the new color, and you're good to go. (This is only when you are turning between color change rows.)
Hope this explains everything.

Intricately Designed said...

This is the best answer in my opinion , and what I follow. I was looking for reassurance and found it.. of course I'm left handed, so I immediately had to interpret them backwards, lol. Thanks again

Marty Miller said...

You're welcome! Glad I could help.

Unknown said...

That was very helpful in determining the RS and WS. Thank you.

Marty Miller said...

You're very welcome! Happy to help.

Anonymous said...

I have a question. I am starting an afghan and have finished row 1. my wrong side is in my right hand, I know that much. What I need to know is to add the second row am I adding it to the initial base chain so the bottom of my row or the top where I have loops? Or do I have it backward but initial base chain is the top and the loops are the bottom.

Marty Miller said...

If you are working in rows, the foundation chain is at the bottom, and the tops of the stitches are at the top, and what you would work in to. So you just turn you rows, when you get to the end, like you're turning the pages of a book.

Anonymous said...

I have a pattern that says with WRONG side facing join the next color. I have the right and the wrong side thing worked out, but I need help in where I would join the new color, is it on the right or left side as I am looking at it? Thanks for you help in advance.

Marty Miller said...

Probably on the right side of the row as you are looking at the Wrong side of the piece. In other words, you are on the Wrong Side, and you want to start a new color in the row you are about to crochet. You start the color at the beginning of that row, which, after you turned and have the wrong side of the piece facing you, the beginning of the row will be on the right hand side.

Unknown said...

I am a beginner at crocheting. The pattern is labeled as easy. It states to chain 224.
Row 1 ( wrong size): SC in second chance from hook and in next ch, cheese 1 * skin next ch, cheese 1 ; repeat from* across your last 4 chs, skip next ch, SC in last chs, finish off: 113 school and 110 ch-1sps. I understand the direction except for the wrong side part. After I chain the 224 do I flip it over to the back to be the wrong side or does it mean that since I'm working back in the other direction that this is considered the wrong side and when I get to the end to turn and change colors that side will be the right side?

Marty Miller said...

After you make your chain, work into it as usual. That first row is the wrong side row. Finish it, turn, change colors if that's what's called for, and work into the second row. That, and the other even numbered rows are the Right Side rows. So in the pattern, probably all wrong side rows are odd numbers, right side rows are even numbered.
Also, you might want to watch your "auto-correct". You've got some funny words in your post!

Laverne said...

I am fairly experienced at crocheting, however, I have completed all the separate pieces for a baby cardigan (Red Heart LW4820 Aran Stitch Cardigan & Hat), but have not yet sewn the pieces together. This is because I just noticed that the bobble stitch is popping to the back side. It appears to me that the pattern is incorrectly written when it says that the "Little Bobble Pattern" row 1 is the right side. I have researched this issue on the internet and one site said the bobble stitch is always done on the wrong side so that the bobble pops to the back (which would be the right side). I have not completed any other projects with a bobble stitch so this is a surprise to me now when the bobbles show on the wrong side. Are there any suggestions to fix this without re-doing all my work? Thank you!

Marty Miller said...

I just looked at the pattern, and the bobble stitch is worked on the Right side - because there is a "set up" row before you start working the bobble pattern - and that is an "extra" row at the beginning. So when you start the bobble pattern, it's really Row 2 of the whole pattern (which is the Right Side), but Row 1 of the Bobble stitch pattern, which is the Right Side. When you start patterns like this, it helps to read through the whole pattern before you start crocheting. If you did work the bobble stitch part with the set-up row, you have nothing to worry about. Your bobble stitches will be on the Right Side.

Marty Miller said...

I just looked at the pattern again - it seems that each part starts with a set-up row - so each part has an extra row, that's not counted in the row counts. And the first row is then really the second row. But they call it the first row, and that's the Right side. I hope this doesn't confuse you too much! :-)

Louise said...

I understand how to tell the difference between the right side and wrong side, but the pattern I'm doing is a spike stitch. It looks the same regardless of the side you view. I rarely do patterns the specify a specific side. The pattern indicates row 2 is the right side. My question is this: Does that mean all my even rows are the right side, regardless of where the tail from the chain is located?

Marty Miller said...

Yes, you are right - when the pattern says that Row 2 is the right side, 99% of the time that means that all even rows are the right side. Sometimes, though, the pattern might tell you to not turn one row, or something else, and then the right side will change. But the pattern should tell you this.
Some crocheters say that the first row is always the right side. So the tail of the foundation chain would be on the left. But that's not correct. The right side is what the designer says is the right side.

Unknown said...

I am working on a Minnie mouse graphgan. I don't have the pattern just a picture graph. I started with c2c but it was starting out too big. So I decided to do hdc. I would like to know do I start changing colors for the graph on the odd row or the even row? The right side is on the odd row. Please help?

Unknown said...
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Marty Miller said...

Are you just substituting the hdc stitches for the dc stitches in the original pattern? If so, then just use the info that the pattern gives you about when to start changing colors, on the odd row or the even row. It should work out. But, if it doesn't, you'll find out soon enough. And you can work it the other way.

Linda said...
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Marty Miller said...

I'm not sure I understand what you wrote. Do you mean "rows" when it says "rolls"? If so, and you want to make the number of rows the same, take a sheet of paper, and make a mark for each row and color when you make it. Then, you should have the same amount of rows for each color.
Hope this helps.

asmooch22 said...

I have just started this blanket LW5497-Lakehouse-Crochet-Throw-Free-Crochet-Pattern.pdf This is the first pattern i have worked that has required me to work the wrong side of the blanket for 3 rows in a row how exactly do i do this? Fasten off at the end of the row and then simply go back to the beginning of the row to start the next row with the wrong side still facing me??? Seems to simple but it says not to turn the work so that is what im guessing. Any help you can give me to clarify before i move on would be appreciated.

Row 1 (wrong side): Sc in 2nd ch from
hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch;
repeat from * across—76 sc and 75 ch-1
spaces. Fasten off. Do not turn.
Row 2: With wrong side facing, join B
with slip st in first sc, ch 3 (counts as
first dc here and throughout), dc in first
ch-1 space, (ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 space
across, dc in last sc; drop loop from
hook and place on marker—77 dc and 74

asmooch22 said...

I am crocheting a blanket and it is the first time i have been instructed to crochet on the wrong side for 2-3 rows in a row. How do i do this? tie off the color and then just go back to the beginning of the row attach the new color and crochet again? Any help would be appreciated.

Row 1 (wrong side): Sc in 2nd ch from
hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch;
repeat from * across—76 sc and 75 ch-1
spaces. Fasten off. Do not turn.
Row 2: With wrong side facing, join B
with slip st in first sc, ch 3 (counts as
first dc here and throughout), dc in first
ch-1 space, (ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 space
across, dc in last sc; drop loop from
hook and place on marker—77 dc and 74

Marty Miller said...

Yes, what the directions tell you to do is to start Row 2 where you started Row 1. Don't turn. Just end off the yarn for Row 1, and start the new yarn at the same end where you started Row 1. Some patterns do that - so you just have to make a note of it, and maybe mark the WS or the RS of the blanket with a stitch marker, so you'll know where you should be working.

asmooch22 said...

another question when i read Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first dc here and throughout) do i work my last stitch in the following row into the chain 2?

Marty Miller said...

You count that ch-2 as a stitch, so if the pattern says to work your stitch into that last stitch,(or, it could say - work your stitches across), then yes, you would. Make sure you count your stitches at the end of that row, to make sure you didn't skip or add any stitches.